Continuing my series of Layover Adventures, this week I want to share some memories from two long layovers I had in Brussels, Belgium back in the summer of 2014, on my way to Africa.

Brussels is probably one of the most fantastic places to change planes I’ve ever experienced. Not only is it just a short train ride from the very centre of Brussels (the airport trains use a subway tunnel and literally stop in the very centre), but the lines at the airport are short and easy.

Thus, I managed to go from having a waffle in the middle of La Grande Place via train, through security, customs, and all the way to my gate in about 30 minutes. You can’t even pull that off at DCA!

Getting To Brussels

When you arrive at Brussels Airport (note: I’m talking about Brussels-Zaventem Airport. Ryanair, Pegasus, Wizz Air, and JetAirFly operate out of Brussels Charleroi Airport), disembark, head through customs, and follow the signs to the train station. You’ll need to buy a ticket to ride the train, either from an automated kiosk or a human in the booth (it’s about €14 RT last I heard), then you just hop on the next train towards Gare Centrale. You’ll be in central Brussels usually within an hour of touchdown.

You’ll notice immediately the mixture of languages present in Brussels: Flemish (very similar to Dutch), French, and occasionally English. Don’t worry if you don’t speak any of these, as Brussels is international enough to use English as your primary language of communication.

From the Gare Centrale, you’re within a 5-10 minute walk of a whole host of fantastic things to see, eat, and experience.

Going north on Rue Infant Isabelle from the exit of the train station will bring you to a small square with a Novotel and an Ibis Hotel. There’s a great little waffle place on the corner called Gaufre Bruxelles that is a nice place to sit and contemplate the quiet beauty of this little square. I visited on a Sunday morning, and I had most of the downtown quarter to myself during the visit.

A carved door to the mausoleum at Uzgen

Inside the mausoleum at Uzgen

On the north side of the square is the entrance to the beautiful Les Galéries Royales Saint-Hubert, an indoor arcade with some beautiful light and architecture, not to mention shopping.

Les Galéries Royales Saint-Hubert were deserted the Sunday morning that I visited.

Opposite the Galéries, down the narrow Rue de la Colline, is La Grande Place (Grote Markt), the heart of Brussels and Belgium as a whole. One side of the Place has Brussels City Hall (Hôtel De Ville), while the other side has The Museum of the City of Brussels. The Belgian Beer Museum also sits on the square. Given the wide variety of cafes, chocolate shops, and waffle parlors, I highly recommend skipping the Starbucks for something more local and authentic. This is a great place to relax and people watch, and perhaps polish off a few slides on your presentations if you’re on a business trip.

Cafés on La Grande Place are a great place to park and work during a layover.

Different times of year bring different festivals to this square, but there’s always something going on. While I was there, they were assembling a large “Turkish Carpet” made out of tulips.

From the southern corner of La Grande Place (to the left of City Hall), follow the Rue Charles Buls, then continue straight down the Rue de l’Etuve for two streets to find Manekin Pis, the iconic statue of a small boy urinating. At various holidays, he is dressed up in costumes. It’s definitely one of the more amusing landmarks here.

In the other direction from Gaufre Bruxelles, down Rue de la Montagne, is a park with the Cathedral of Saints Michel and Gudule, another spectacular landmark.

In fact, all of central Brussels has so many landmarks, cafés, museums, and other places of interest that it’s not possible to visit even a quarter during the typical layover! I know now having visited that I want to return to Brussels as a part of a larger trip to see Belgium, but for now I recommend using the layover to enjoy a bit of European food and fresh air to break up the monotony and discomfort of the typical 24 hour US to Africa itinerary.

If you do have extra time, you can consider arranging a tour of the European Union headquarters, or you can consider visiting one of the many museums in central Brussels.

Where To Eat and Drink

The aforementioned Gaufre Bruxelles was a highlight of my stop with a wonderful selection of waffles, with a peaceful outside seating area that was perfect for enjoying the fresh air and some people watching. There are plentiful cafes all over the old town which are worth looking into.

Belgian hot chocolate? Yes, please.

The best selection of Belgian beer is hands-down Délirium Café, which is tucked away on an alley a few blocks from La Grande Place. From Les Galéries Royales, walk through the gallery to the intersecting street (Rue des Bouchers), and turn left. Pass Rue des Dominicains on the right, Petite Rue Des Bouchers on your left, then turn right into the tiny alleyway, called Impasse de la Fidélité. It’s located across from a statue called Jeanneke –Pis, which is considered a sister monument to Mannekin Pis.

You can also get good beer back at the airport if you run out of time, including at 8 in the morning after an overnight flight from Africa.

Brussels is also famous for its steamed mussels with fries, called “moules frites” with various names indicating what type of sauce they are prepared with. The best moules frites within walking distance of La Grande Place and the central area are at La Boussole, located by the fish market opposite the Church of Saint Catherine. From Délirium Café, continue up Rue Des Bouchers, and at some point turn right (any street will do – get lost and enjoy it!), and go one block to Rue de l’Ecuyer/Rue de l’Evêque (they’re the same street, but the name changes at some point). Turn left onto Rue de L’Evêque, and follow it straight to the Church of Saint Catherine. The road will veer left right before the church, and you’ll see a large square to your right. There is a fish market here some days, and on other days it’s pretty empty. Up the square near the end on the right is La Boussole. If you’re in a hurry to get back to the Airport from here (or your shoes are killing you), Sainte Catherine subway stop is only two stops from the Gare Centrale subway station.

 

Moules frites with a Stella Artois at a Belgian restaurant in New York City

If you’re REALLY looking to dive deep into the mussels, though, the top restaurant is Le Zinneke, which serves 69 different varieties of mussels. It’s located on Place de la Patrie, which is about 45 minutes’ walk from La Grande Place/Grote Markt, so it’s best to take a taxi, assuming you have the time.

Getting Back To Zaventem Airport

Because of the crowds that might appear at security and customs, it’s a good idea to leave for the airport about two hours before your flight. Getting back to the Gare Centrale is pretty simple, as there are signs, but don’t be shy to ask for directions if you’ve gotten yourself turned around. From there, it’s a quick ride to the airport, just make sure your train says that it will go to Brussels Zaventem Airport (and NOT Charleroi Airport).

Regarding Brussels Airlines

If you’ve got a layover in Belgium, you’re probably flying Brussels Airlines. Brussels Airlines is descended from SABENA, and continues to offer that carrier’s large network of African destinations at a reasonable price. As a Star Alliance Member, you might also change from United to Brussels Airlines in Belgium. I was impressed with my service on Brussels Airlines, although I did not earn any miles because of the fare class in which I travelled. Their seats and service were impressive, and because Belgium is in the EU, the EU’s impressive consumer protection laws protect all airline passengers. That means that if there’s a long delay, you can get more compensation and airline assistance much more easily than in the US.

Brussels Airlines only has 9 long-haul aircraft, so their intercontinental schedules are limited, but they’re a great choice for affordable travel from the US to Africa, particularly at the last-minute. You may also fly them to various European cities. With the connectedness of the European rail networks, Brussels is also an alternative point of entry for people visiting the Netherlands, northern France, northwest Germany, and even the UK via the Eurostar.

Note On Terrorism

I was very shocked and saddened by the recent attacks at Brussels Airport and in Brussels. Part of the reason I chose to write this post is because I want people to know that Brussels is a really interesting and pleasant place to change planes, and that these attacks are no reason to avoid traveling there.

I have faith in the security personnel and the police of Belgium and the European Union, and while what happened is a terrible tragedy, we can show our support for the people of Belgium by continuing to visit Belgium and continuing to learn about Belgium, its history, food, culture, and such. When we stop doing these kinds of things that bring us joy, that’s when the terrorists win.

Map

Feel free to add to this guide or ask questions in the comments below! Have you had a layover in Brussels? How was it?