When we were preparing to come to Kyrgyzstan, we were warned about the incredibly cold winters faced in the mountain villages of Naryn. We were also warned about how hot the summers can be, with temperatures well over 100 in many places for months on end. What we didn’t realize, though, was how quickly the seasons change, and at times we least expected.
When we first arrived in late April, there were a few days when I needed a pullover, but for the most part for all of May, June, and July, we were burning to a crisp in Bishkek and Osh. We were even warned that August might be the same (it was unbearably hot and humid last year during August in Chui oblast). But, upon my arrival in Song-Kul at the beginning of August, I realized that the balance of temperatures here is highly dependent on location, altitude. I also realized, standing there shivering in my heaviest pullover in the 40 degree weather, that summer is really quite short here.
August was refreshingly cool compared to July – I didn’t need a pullover, but it was squarely in the 80’s most days, which was warm enough to feel relaxing but not completely disgusting from sweat. This was a very welcome surprise (the frequent torrential rainstorms, however, were not), although near the end of the month we all realized that this was really a sign of impending fall, which meant winter was coming faster than we wanted to believe.
I should amend “was coming” to say “has come:” the first snow fell in a volunteer’s site on 3 September this year! It’s still technically summer!
Landing in Osh was refreshing as well, as the first week of September has brought temperatures a full 30 degrees cooler than they were back in late July. I’m now sleeping under a big blanket, wearing sweaters around the house, and eagerly drinking tea to warm up when I get home.
The trees in the mountains are starting to change, which means we’re heading into full-blown fall, which I’m told will turn to full-blown winter by the end of October.
With our 4-month training program finally over, and a road ahead, the transition to fall is coming at a time that is delineating the true start of service more clearly than I could have ever imagined for myself.
The road is long, and will have more switchbacks and flat tyre stops than I can fathom, but there’s some good stuff hiding around the corner, I know it. I’ll just have to put on a few extra layers.