Summer is here, which means that each week, more and more adventurous tourists come passing through my beloved home of Osh, Kyrgyzstan.  A lot has changed about Osh even since the Lonely Planet Central Asia and the Bradt Kyrgyzstan guides were updated in 2014, so I wanted to put together a quick destination guide to things to do and see in Osh for the DIY tourist who’s going to be passing through or staying for a few days.  Most tourists only budget a few days or even a few hours for Osh, but let me tell you, there’s plenty of reasons to spend more time than that here!

Lets get started!

For more information on Osh, be sure to check out the new official Destination Osh website!  It’s the most up to date with walking tours, accommodation, and other information (some of which I helped pioneer).

History

Osh is oozing with history and culture.  At over 3000 years old, it is easily the oldest city in Kyrgyzstan, and has been an important hub of the Fergana valley for literal millennia.  Originally a key stop along the Silk Road trading routes from China to Europe, Osh remained relevant into the shipping age as being the area that produced Babur, one of the national heroes of Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.  Babur was born in Andijan, just across the modern Uzbek border from Osh, and went on to found the Mughal Empire that reigned over India and Afghanistan for several hundred years.  In Osh, Babur is particularly remembered for constructing a small mosque on the summit of Suleiman-Too, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In more recent times, Osh is known as the home of Kurmanjan Datka, the so-called “Queen of the South.”  She is revered today as a mother of the nation because she broke many traditional gender roles in her rise to power.  When she was 18, a marriage was arranged for Kurmanjan, but she broke tradition and refused to marry him at the wedding.  She later married the lord of the Alay region, Alymbek, in 1832, and was given the title “Datka.”  He was murdered in a coup in 1862, which led to neighboring khanates recognizing Kurmanjan Datka as the leader of the Alay region.  When Russia invaded in 1876, she successfully persuaded her people to accept Russian leadership rather than fight a losing battle against them.  When her sons became embroiled in smuggling and were convicted of murdering two customs officials, she refused to commute their sentences and is said to have actually attended the public execution of one (the other was exiled).  How’s that for a powerful woman?

In the Soviet era, Osh became an important hub for a variety of industries and factories, including aviation and water pump manufacture.  As always, the fertile Fergana valley also made it a centre of agriculture.  Most ethnic Kyrgyz lived in the countryside and worked on farms or tended cattle, while cities were primarily occupied by Uzbeks working in commerce.  With the arrival of industry, many Kyrgyz people moved into the city of Osh to work in factories, but due to a lack of housing, tens of Soviet-style apartment blocks were erected for them.  As the city grew, this unintentionally created some divided neighborhoods, with Uzbeks living in some areas in houses with Kyrgyz elsewhere in apartments.

As the Soviet Union began to fall, the economic disparities between the wealthier business owners with houses and poorer factory workers in apartment blocks began to boil over, and in 1990 and 2010, tragic instances of large-scale unrest and violence killed hundreds and put the city on edge.  It is a reductive disservice to call them “ethnic clashes” as many sources do – their causes are far more complex and nuanced, and well beyond the scope of this blog.  The key point here is that bad things happened and many people were killed.  Many if not most people here wish to move past it, so I do my best to respect their wishes and not bring it up in conversation.  When in Osh, it is usually considered impolite to bring up the “June Events,” as they are called here, so keep that in mind as you make new friends and explore our city.

Despite these recent tragedies, from my time living in Osh, I can see within the fabric of this city an incredible vibrance and vitality.  People here, regardless of socioeconomic status or ethnicity, truly love this city, and it’s not hard to see why when you visit.  Despite hot weather, Osh is filled with lush green trees and pleasant fragrant breezes.  The city oozes culture and history from its pores, and the true Central Asian hospitality fills it with a warm, welcoming energy that is unlike any other major Central Asian city that I have been to.  The New York Times put it so: “Osh, Kyrgyzstan’s second biggest town, felt like somewhere — as one German traveler put it — that “the inhabitants are happy to live in.” (see the full, very Orientalist article here).

People always make a huge deal about Osh being “more Muslim,” or “more conservative.” It’s true that in Osh, people tend to be more likely to go to mosque and that many men and women tend to cover their heads.  Many articles frame this as some sort of a negative, or in some way that serves to “other” the people of Osh.  The people of Osh are just people, some of whom wear a headscarf for a variety of reasons, some of whom don’t, some of whom go to mosque, some of whom don’t.  Just arrive with an open mind and an open heart, behave and dress respectfully as you would anywhere else in this region that you travel, and smile, and this city will welcome you with open arms just as it has welcomed me!

Getting Around

Osh is not too difficult to navigate by walking.  The central district of the city is called Aravanski, which is on the left (west) bank of the Ak-Burra river, and there are two main North-South streets there.  The westernmost is Kurmanjan Datka, which moves traffic southbound, while Lenin moves traffic northbound.  At the north and south ends of Aravanski, bridges cross the Ak-Buura river to Masalieva St, the other major north-south artery on the other side of the river.

Many marshrutkas run all over Osh, and cost 10 som as you exit the bus.  Buses cost 8 som, also as you exit.  The most important marshrutkas are:

• 107 Aeroport, which goes from the airport down Masalieva St. to the bazaar (it goes near Sunrise Hotel, Biy-Ordo, Ordo Asia, and a few other major hotels)
• 142 Aeroport, which goes from Aravanski to the airport via the main bus station (airport is north of town)
• Bus 13, which goes from Aravanski to Masalieva to the main bus station.
• If you know a landmark, you can also look for it on the placards in the front of marshrutkas.

Always as the driver which direction a marshrutka is going as you board, because different routes go different directions at different stops, sometimes seemingly illogically.

Sights

Suleiman Too

Suleiman Too is the symbol of Osh, and the number one stop for most people visiting Osh, both local and foreign.  The mountain has been a pilgrimage site for millennia, and is said to be the resting place of the prophet Sulayman (Solomon).  In 1510, Babur (mentioned above) built a mosque in Sulayman’s honor at the peak (which has been destroyed and rebuilt several times).  The mountain was also considered the mid-point of the Silk Road, and was supposedly mentioned by Ptolemy in his writings.

The mountain can be accessed by a staircase on the end nearest to the city for 20 som, and the trail runs the length of the mountain, with additional trails exploring the entire thing. The view is spectacular, especially at sunrise and sunset.

Following the trail from the Kyrgyz flag at the summit towards the Suleiman Mosque (the largest mosque in the region), you’ll pass the “fertility slide.”  Tradition holds that a woman who slides down the slide seven times will bear strong children.

Further along the mountain are many caves and side trails.  Locals believe that the mountain has the power to cure some ailments, and different cracks in the mountain are designated to different illnesses. I’m not sure which is for what, so I just go and enjoy the walk and the view.  At the end is a large museum inside the mountain with a large concrete bonnet popping out of the mountain.  It’s one of the better museums in Kyrgyzstan, and takes about 20 minutes and costs 150 som for foreigners.  Skip the museum in the park, but consider looking inside the 3-storey yurt, which was the largest in the world until Turkmenistan decided to build a yurt-shaped building.

Suleiman Too Mosque

This new mosque is currently the second largest in Kyrgystan (recently deposed by a new one in Bishkek), and is really a spectacular building. Entry I think is allowed only to men, but I haven’t tried to go in because I’m still enamored with the appearance from the outside.  It’s located in the middle of the south side of Suleiman Too.

Chong Lenin

Osh has the largest remaining Lenin statue in Central Asia!  It’s huge! And it’s right in front of our city hall for your viewing pleasure.  From the central Aravanski district, walk south on Lenin Street until you, you know, see Lenin.  It’s opposite the Osh Flagpole and City Hall, and just past it is the beautiful Toktogul Park, with our World War II Memorial and our Chernobyl Memorial.

Toktogul Park

Toktogul Park is a beautiful lush green oasis just south of the Mayor’s office/chong Lenin.  It’s pretty big, and a very pleasant place to spend an afternoon with an ice cream and a book watching youths canoodle.  There’s a new very nice cafe that just opened called Green Park that might be a pleasant place to relax outside.

Ashkana Row

Located along Kurmanjan Datka street just south of the old bridge in front of the City Hospital is what I’ve dubbed “Ashkana Row.”  There’s about 10 or 15 tiny little hole in the wall cafes here with delicious homemade Uzbek and Kyrgyz food.  The mint green mantykana has some of the most amazing manty (dumplings).

Flower Bazaar

The main intersection in Aravanski at Kurmanjan Datka street is often colloquially called “gul bazaar” because there are a bunch of flower shops located together in close proximity.  It’s beautiful, cool, and very fragrant, especially in the summer.

Main Bazaar

Maybe I’ve been to too many, but I don’t find bazaars to be as exciting as many tourists will.  But, it’s a great place to find local handcrafts and souvenirs, which are mainly concentrated on the left bank near Filarmoniya (yes, there’s a philharmonic building here, no I’ve never heard of a concert happening).

Amusement Park

Along the river in Aravanski is our local amusement park.  All of the rides are really meant for kids for the most part, but it’s an enjoyable place to visit every so often for the energy and the greenery.  At the southern end of the park is a ferris wheel and an abandoned Yakovlev Yak-40 regional jet that used to have a cafe inside of it.

Soviet Public Art

I’m working on a map of my favorite murals, mosaics, and other pieces of Soviet public art in Osh, but rest assured that there’s a lot of really cool historical pieces of public art that are still here from the Soviet era.  I’ll link to it from this post when I finish – I know at least two readers have asked me to create a resource for this!

Pools

Osh in the summer is HOT.  What better way to cool off than to spend the day at a pool, either a cheap local spot or a more comfortable resort?  This is how we (and a LOT of locals) like to spend most of our weekends, that’s for sure!  Admission usually includes a locker, and you can usually bring in your own food/drinks to the cheaper ones.

• Fer-As – This pool is located along the river by the old bridge. 350 som entrance, clean water, funky sun chairs, and occasional pool parties.  It even has a bar-restaurant inside so you can order some beer or food.
• Delfin – Not sure how much this one costs, but it’s located by the stadium and Tes Guest House.
• Rémi Resort – it’s the nicest pool, but inconveniently located and WILDLY overpriced, particularly food (since you’re not allowed to bring anything in) – budget at least 1500 som per person.  It’s really not worth that much money, though.
• There’s tons of other pools in and around Osh, most for only 100 som admission (and some with wifi even!), so ask around!

Lodging

Luckily for the wayward traveler, Osh has a surplus of lodging, meaning that most people can show up without reservations and be fine.  That being said, you can still book a bunch of great options here in Osh on Booking.com.  Places that my friends have stayed at or visited and approved:

• Konok Hostel: This is actually a small network of apartments, and it’s at the top of the list because it has the best location right by Alimbek Datka Park.  The owner, Meri, is an absolute delight and takes very good care of all her guests.  This is where I have everyone visiting me stay if I can!  She’s also just opened up a new hostel called Konok Remi, which has free access to the fanciest pool in Osh!
• Bayana Guest House: A nice guest house in the back of a restaurant between Aravanski and the Drama Theater.  Single 1000 som, double 1500, suite (4 person) 2000
• Tes Guest House: Located down by the river by the Osh Nuru Hotel A bit more expensive, but they have yurts you can stay in (800 som per bed)!  Single 1750’s, Double 2750’s.
• Biy Ordo: A bit outside the centre, but one of the best hostel options here.  6 person dorm at 500 som/bed, or private starting 1000-2500 for up to 4 people.  Their staff is very good at networking travelers together and connecting them to city activities and Pamir Highway drivers, if that’s your path forward.
• Sunrise Osh: This hotel has two convenient locations.  It’s very nice, and on the expensive side.
• Osh Nuru Hotel (former Intourist): It’s a good landmark, but not the best place to stay unless you are really into Stalin-era hotel design.  It’s between Lenin and Kurmanjan Datka south of Aravanski before the Drama Theatre.  It’s one of the tallest buildings in Osh, so you can’t miss it.  On the plus side, they have a great pool and amazing views.  Cheapest singles 800 som, doubles 1200.
• Eco-House: Near the Drama Theatre, this place recently renovated and starts at 1600 for a single.
• Osh Guesthouse: North of the bazaar on Masalieva st.  A bit hard to find, and tight space-wise, but very cheap.  Better for experienced hostel-stayers.  Dorm beds start at 350-400 som. Private apt 1400 som.
• Classic Hotel: This is the most upscale option in town, if that’s your game!

Food

Osh is famous across Kyrgyzstan for its food.  Plain and simple, we have the best food in Central Asia.  I’ll do a more full post on it another time, but here are some of my favorite local specialties.

Tandoor Samsa (also known as “Oshski Samsa”)

This is a type of enormous samosa with sheep and onion that is cooked in a clay oven.  You take a knife, cut off the flat side, and eat the inside with a spoon, then eat the outside.  They’re usually about 50-6o som each, and one is usually enough for most people.  Some of the best ones are at Aidar-Ata Cafe located near city hall just to the west of Kurmanjan Datka Street.  If you follow the main road that goes on the north side of Suleiman Too, there are several little hole in the wall cafes there that have amazing ones as well.

Pumpkin Manty and Spinach “Gök” Chuchvara

Pumpkin-filled Manty is sadly usually out of season during tourist season, but on the off-chance that it’s available, go for it.  If it’s not, then you usually can get “gök” (green) chuchvara, which is a spinach-filled mini-dumpling (sometimes called “pelmeni” in Russian).  They’re fantastically delicious and available at most places that say manty on the outside.  The best manty are at Mantykana Aibek (also spelled “Oibek” by some), which is on the right hand side of Kurmanjan Datka street about 10-15 minutes’ walk north of Aravanski, near a bunch of building supply stores.  Most locals know where it is in case you get lost.

Maida Manty

Osh’s number one specialty food is probably maida manty, which literally means “little manty” in Uzbek.  They’re mashed potato mini-dumplings, but boy are they delicious.  You can also get them anywhere manty is sold, and they usually will advertise that they have them.  The best manty are at Mantykana Aibek, which is on the right hand side of Kurmanjan Datka street about 10-15 minutes’ walk north of Aravanski, near a bunch of building supply stores.

Plov

The number of times I talk about plov on this blog… it’s one of my absolute favorite foods. Unfortunately, because it’s a bit of a special occasion food, it’s hard to just “show up” and order it – you usually have to order it in advance by the kilogram (1kg feeds probably 3 people).  Darkhan, which is located on Masalieva at its very southern end (not far from City Hall), has the best plov, and can usually prepare it with just a few hours advance notice.  Your hostel/hotel can probably help you arrange an order.  If you can’t plan that far ahead, the Jalal-Abad Tea House in Bishkek also has excellent southern-style plov available in individual servings à la carte.

Oromo

Oromo isn’t an Osh specialty per say, but it’s definitely one of my favorite foods here.  It’s dough with a bit of filling that is rolled up and steamed.  Some places even stuff their oromo with meat, pumpkin, or other filling.  Near the “old bridge,” at the southern end of Aravanski, on Lenin street at the intersection, is “Express Cafe,” which has excellent oromo, served with wonderful spicy sauce on the side.  I ran into a group of tourists there once who saw us order oromo, and were so excited on seeing it that they all ordered the exact same thing.  Oromo is probably the least well-known of the national foods here, but it’s definitely one you shouldn’t miss.

Shashlyk

Shashlyk is the Central Asian kebab – not just an Osh specialty.  It’s marinated meat cooked on a flat skewer over a fire of actual coal, and is crispy, juicy, and all-around delicious.  Each skewer has one or two cubes of pure fat that are a delicious delicacy.  It’s made with all kinds of meat, including ground meat, beef, sheep, chicken, duck, and even pork in some places (but don’t ask for pork unless you are sure you see it on the menu!).  My personal favorites are sheep, duck, and pork.  A note for some visitors: the marinade often includes dairy, so if you have an allergy or keep kosher, be sure to check with the server if there is dairy.

In Osh, you can find them in many different places, but some of the very best is at Islambek Cafe located near Frunze Bazaar on Lenin St.  Islambek is quite out of the way and hard to find, though, so a close second is Tsarskii Dvor, a nice restaurant located in the very centre of Aravanski near the park along the river.  Their duck shashlyk is particularly delicious.  Their outdoor patio is an amazing place to relax with a cold glass of kvas at the end of a long hot day of exploring, and has led to its informal christening among expats as “The Treehouse.”

Other National Foods

Kyrgyz cuisine also has lagman, ashlyam-fu, fried lagman, fried manty, and a whole host of other delicious dishes.  But, a lot of them aren’t frequently eaten in Osh or don’t really know where to get the best stuff.  But, you’ll for sure have a chance to try these dishes elsewhere in Kyrgyzstan.  The dishes I listed are the ones Osh specializes in.

Familiar Flavors

Osh also has some more familiar dishes for those just arriving from long stretches without them, or for those who need a cafe to work.

• Brio – This is our cafe of choice.  With delicious sandwiches on their stunningly delicious ciabatta, to their french toast sticks, and finally a full selection of coffee and iced coffee, this is our new favorite cafe.  Sandwiches 100 som, ice coffee 105 som.  The wifi is serviceable, and the decor amazing.
• Borsok – Borsok has two locations, and serves a variety of good food, from burgers to burritos to chicken stir-fry to spaghetti bolognese and pizza.  Their specialty teas are also delicious.  A cappuccino is 65 som.  Their wifi is pretty good.
• California Cafe – Open for 10 years now, California has great American-style breakfast food in the morning and a nice selection of salad, pizza and Tex-mex during the day.  No wifi.  Americano 50 som, cappuccino 100 som.
• Monaco – The best pizza and American/European-style salads in Osh.  It’s located right by the flower shops in the centre of Aravanski on Kurmanjan Datka St.  Wifi is decent.
• Shawarma Row – There’s a row of shawarma stands right by Monaco in the flower shops area of Aravanski.  Burger Plus has the best, but Oasis is also really good.
• Pizz&Burg – This place is new, and has a spectacular Club Sandwich for only 85 som.  Their pizza is also good, and their chicken nuggets, wings, and fries are also impressive.  They generally have the fastest wifi in Osh.  No coffee, only tea.  Skip their burgers.
• Cafe Aidai – This is our one-stop-shop for all foods Turkish.  The owner is a nice man from Istanbul.  It’s across the street from the mayor’s office on Kurmanjan Datka.  Rather surprisingly, there is no Turkish coffee available anywhere in Osh from what I understand.
• Malinkaya Yaponiya (Little Japan) – Sushi galore, along with Calamari Roulette!  This place is a little hard to spot – it’s located near the bazaar’s north exit near the main city mosque.
• Las Vegas – It sounds American, but it’s actually Chinese!  Located near Toktogul park.
• Arirang – This place is way down south of Frunze in between Kurmanjan Datka and Lenin, but has some great Korean food.  Skip the other “Korean” place called Banzai – their menu is incomplete and it’s more expensive.
• RR Donuts – real donuts, better than Dunkin if you can believe it.  Look for the booth on Kurmanjan Datka near the Bakyt-üi (lit. “house of happiness”), and the other one on the same street just south of Cafe Aidai.

Maps

So now you know the inside-out of all my favorite spots in Osh… but where are all of them?  Here’s an interactive Google Map I prepared to help you out!

In short, Osh is an amazing place, both to live and to visit, and I hope you’ll consider visiting me and staying for a few days to see why I love this place so much.

What else do you want to know about Osh?  Any places I forgot to mention?  Let me know in the comments so I can keep building this guide for you!

For more information on Osh, be sure to check out the new official Destination Osh website!  It’s the most up to date with walking tours, accommodation, and other information (some of which I helped pioneer).

This blog is part of the BloggingAbroad.org blog challenge, responding to the prompt “Home”  Learn more at BloggingAbroad.org.