Bishkek.  Capital of the Kyrgyz Republic.  Largest city, hub for culture and industry.  And the place most people first encounter when they arrive in Kyrgyzstan.  In fact, it’s very difficult to visit Kyrgyzstan and NOT end up in Bishkek for at least one night because all the flights leave in the middle of the night.  I’ve been in Bishkek a lot lately for training, so I’ve put together this guide to some of my favorite sights, hangouts, and day-trips that you too can do during your time there.

History

Bishkek, like many cities in Central Asia, started as a military fortress during the Khokand khanate (the larger empire that I discussed in my post about Kurmanjan Datka) in 1825.

Like many Soviet cities, its name has evolved over time.  Originally named “Pishpek,” supposedly after the churn used to prepare kymyz, the name was changed in 1926 to Frunze, which was chosen to honor Mikhail Frunze, a Red Army Commander and Bolshevik known for his activity during the Russian Revolution who was born in Pishpek and had died the year prior.  The airport code for Bishkek’s Manas International Airport is actually still FRU.  In 1991, the name was changed to Bishkek, which I think is also related to the original name.  I once heard an elderly woman call it “Pishpek” and I did a double take – she seemed too young to be defaulting to a name that “hasn’t been used in 96 years,” but it might indicate that these names were a bit fluid.  After all, I still do hear people refer to Khudjand, Tajikistan as Leninabad.

Fast forward to the Soviet era, which is when modern Bishkek really began to take shape.  Socialist realist architecture and standardized apartment blocks make up the majority of buildings, with many monuments, public squares, and parks dotting the wide, tree-lined boulevards and orderly grid of streets.

More recent history of Bishkek has included the US air base at Manas Airport, which influenced some of the city’s culture, and the increasing modernization of the country that has thrust this city forward much faster than the rest of the country.  The city continues to grow and modernize, including opening a new shopping mall and many international fast food franchises.

Many people also will note that in Bishkek, much like Almaty, Russian is the most commonly used language.  In fact, most of my friends in Bishkek have commented that my Kyrgyz is actually better than theirs, and based on more than a few conversations, it actually might be the case – some people immediately give up trying to communicate with me when I speak Kyrgyz to them!  Bishkek’s larger Russian population, the greater access to materials in Russian, and the history of Russian as the primary language of higher education has contributed to the language’s continuing importance here, and I think that both languages can and do play an important part in the continuing ascendance of this beautiful country.

In case you missed it, there are a lot of apps that can help you while you’re in Bishkek and Kyrgyzstan.  See my full article with download links here.

Getting Around

Getting to Bishkek is pretty simple by air.  From the airport, you’ll need to get into Bishkek by marshrutka or taxi.  The #380 marshrutka leaves from the far right of the parking lot, but only during daylight hours (which is when exactly 0 international flights arrive).  It costs 40 som, and drops you off at the intersection of Molodoi Gvardia and Chui in central Bishkek (see the map at the end of the post).  If you are arriving at night, walk to the curb to find a taxi, or arrange one in advance.  Technically, a taxi from the airport to anywhere in Bishkek should only cost 500 som, but some companies are trying to raise it to 700 som, so this is also fair.  Going TO the airport should always be only 500.  Your hotel can usually call your taxi for you, or you can use an app like Namba (iOS / Android).

Within Bishkek, it’s very easy to navigate the system of trolleybuses, buses, and marshrutkas using the app Bus.kg (iOS / Android), or 2GIS (iOS / Android).  Buses and trolleys are 8 som as you exit, while marshrutkas are 10 som as you board.

Most of central Bishkek can be navigated by walking, though, even though some points are an hour walk apart.  With the wide sidewalks and plentiful trees, it’s actually a lovely city to walk around.  The main east-west streets are (from north to south): Jibek Jolu, Chui (the main-est), Kiev, Toktogul, Moscov/Moskva, and Bokonbaev.  From west to east, the big ones to know are Molodoi Gvardia (sometimes Jash Gvardia), Manas, Erkindik, Abdyrakhmanov (But called Sovietskaya by everyone, this is the big one), and Ibraimov.  All of these you may hear constructed in Russian with -skaya, -ski, and other modifications to comply with their grammatical context.

Bishkek has two main bus stations (vokzals) that you should know about.  Both are located on Jibek Jolu (which literally means Silk Road, and it happens to also be the highway across Kyrgyzstan), and are called West/Zapadniy (New/Jangy) and East/Vostochny (Old/Eski/Stariy).  The Old Vokzal has departures to destinations in the eastern end of Chui, including Tokmok, Issyk-Ata Resort, and Dordoi Bazaar.  The West/New Vokzal has buses to China and Talas, marshrutkas to Almaty, and marshrutkas and taxis to just about everywhere.  This is the main point of departure for most people moving around Kyrgyzstan.  Most marshrutkas run on a schedule with set prices, and I usually avoid the taxi hustlers outside because I have a history of trust issues.  Apple Hostel happens to be located right by the West/New bus station, which is very convenient for travelers who are stopping for just one night.

Bishkek II is the train station, located at the very south end of Erkindik by Bokonbaev street.  There are trains to Moscow 3 days a week, and there are daily trains to Balykchy in the summer (mid-June to late-August).  The train leaves at like 6am, costs 69 som, and takes 4-5 hours and is an interesting experience, but the marshrutka only takes 2.5 hours for 150 som.  The return train leaves around 4pm from Balykchy, so it’s possible to day-trip to the beach.  In terms of the station itself, someone actually recently told me that it was built by German prisoners-of-war during World War II, and that most of them died and were buried in pits nearby.  Kind of morose, but interesting.

Sights

Bishkek certainly has a good deal to see and experience.  Some of my favorite places are just parks and gardens, but theres a few places you absolutely shouldn’t miss.

Ala-Too Square

This is the main public square of Kyrgyzstan, with benches, fountains, cafes, and plenty of frolicking families opposite the Historical Museum of Kyrgyzstan and a massive statue of Manas, the historical hero of the Kyrgyz people.  In front of the museum is the national flagpole, with its hourly changing of the guard an exciting spectacle.

The History Museum is also interesting in its own right.  Inside, there are a few good exhibits, but it’s worth the price of admission just to see the mural inside which depicts Ronald Reagan riding on a nuclear bomb à la Doctor Strangelove.

White House

To the west of Ala-Too Square along Chui is the White House, which is the seat of the President, Parliament, and many functions of the Kyrgyz government.  Constructed from marble before the fall of the Soviet Union, it originally was the headquarters of the Kyrgyz Communist Party, and it was looted during the Tulip and 2010 Revolutions.  As far as government buildings go, it’s extremely beautiful.  To the far left of the fence in front is a memorial for the 86 people who were shot by police and snipers here and in Ala-Too Square during the 2010 Revolution.  Adjacent to that is a beautiful monument as well.  In Kyrgyzstan, it’s usually OK to photograph government buildings, but the White House is kind of the most important one so to be respectful I have avoided taking photos myself, so this photo is actually from The Diplomat.

Filarmonia

This is both a landmark and a lovely public space.  The square is faced not only by the concert hall, but also by Bishkek City Hall, a park, and the Kyrgyz International University, where some of my language teachers are professors.  The underground crossing at the intersection has some very cheap things for purchase, like headphones, passport covers, and stationery, as well as wallets and the like.

Molodoi Gvardia Boulevard and Erkindik Boulevard

Both of these boulevards have wide parks at their centers, and are lovely areas to walk, sit, and relax in the middle of the day.  Molodoi Gvardia is near Osh Bazaar, while Erkindik is by Ala Too Square.  Erkindik especially is a place where lots of locals come to escape the heat and enjoy an ice cream, and just north of Chui, Erkindik turns into a pedestrian-only zone with a park and my favorite place in Bishkek, the Painting Bazaar.

Osh Bazaar

Osh Bazaar is famous for good and bad reasons.  It’s an impressive bazaar, and the largest in Bishkek proper (although it’s dwarfed by Dordoi).  You can find most everything you want here if you look hard enough.  When visiting, it’s important to keep very vigilant, as there are some conmen who specifically target tourists here, posing as fake policemen (ask to see their documents before showing yours, they CANNOT search you unless you are at a police station, and NEVER let go of your passport – hold it with two hands if you show them).  Others will slash-and-grab bags, so keep your bags in front (or better yet, don’t carry bags at all).  I’ve never had anything happen, but this is ground zero for petty theft among people I know here.  Be careful, and you can enjoy this vibrant heart of local culture and commerce.

Monuments

Like many capital cities, Bishkek is filled with a variety of spectacular monuments, including Victory Square (the “yurt monument” to World War II), the Kurmanjan Datka monument, the Lenin Statue, the monument to working women, and a whole host of others.  I’m not going to pretend to tell you about them all, but there’s an exhaustive list available here.  I know a scavenger hunt is in the cards for my next trip.

Orto-Sai Antiques Bazaar

On Saturday mornings, near Cosmopark and the main Orto-Sai Bazaar, there is an enormous antiques and Soviet curiosities bazaar that is absolutely fascinating to visit.  You can find pins, old radios and clocks, watches, and all kinds of other paraphernalia.  Really worth a visit if you’re around on Saturday.

Day-Trips

Dordoi Bazaar

If you thought Osh Bazaar looked small, you’re right.  Take a marshrutka (I think from the east vokzal) to Dordoi Bazaar for the real deal in one of the greatest markets in Asia (alongside Kara-Suu Bazaar in Osh, the Grand Bazaar in Tehran, and some night market I read about once in Bangkok).  Lines of containers filled with goods, running for miles and miles.  This bazaar’s re-export of goods is said to be the second largest industry in Kyrgyzstan all by itself.  Bask in awe at it before it closes up around midday.

Burana Tower

This is one of the more distant day-trips from Bishkek that you’ll make.  82km from Bishkek is one of the few archaeological sites in Kyrgyzstan that is really worth visiting.  It’s a preserved and reconstructed minaret from the ancient city of Balasagun which existed at the location in the 11th century, originally from the Sogdian empire.  Originally 45m (148 ft) high, earthquakes and other damage have reduced its height to 25m (82 ft) over the years.  I’ve also heard that it was destroyed and rebuilt by archaeologists, but I’m not sure about that.  It’s still a really cool place to visit, and gives a great view of the surrounding area.

To get there, either work with a tour company, or hire a taxi yourself the entire way.  You can also take a marshrutka from Bishkek to Tokmok and hire a taxi there for about 500 som.  Hiring an entire car from Bishkek for the day will probably cost closer to 2000 som (I’m not sure of the exact price – 160km suggest that you would pay about 1600 or 1700 som for the entire car).

Issyk-Ata

This is a beautiful mountain retreat about 60km from Bishkek where many locals like to go walk in the mountains, enjoy fresh air, picnic, and swim in a hot spring.  It’s really beautiful and a pretty easy day trip from Bishkek.  4 marshrutkas leave daily from the East/Old Vokzal in the morning, and 4 return in the afternoon (but the last one at 4pm can be unbearably crowded).  A private taxi will definitely be more comfortable, but I’m not certain of the cost.

Ala-Archa

This is the premier hiking area near Bishkek, popular with both locals and expats alike.  From the trailhead, there’s a 7km walk to a waterfall, a 3km walk through the valley, and something longer that takes you up to a glacier and I think an abandoned Soviet ski base.  Pack in all your food and water just in case, but this is truly the top day-trip out of Bishkek, especially for trekkers and nature lovers.

The number 265 marshrutka will take you from Osh Bazaar directly to the park gate.  From there, you pay 120 som to get in, then you have to hike/hitchhike to the actual park.  Alternately, you can hire a taxi to take you all the way in, but know you’ll have to pay extra for the car (100-400 som, sources vary), and then some for him to wait for you, and so on.  Many guest houses and tour operators will lead reasonably priced day tours and hikes here as well, or arrange transport for you, which is a great option, especially if you don’t like marshrutkas and hitchhiking or aren’t comfortable in Russian.  There is also a guest house in the park in case you get stuck overnight.

Skiing

There’s something like 10 ski bases within a reasonable drive of Bishkek.  Many are small, and don’t have great lifts or long runs, but for 700 som transport and 1600 som for gear and a lift pass, it’s definitely very affordable.  Ask some of the tour companies because I actually know very little about this – just that I really want to do it!

Paragliding / Skydiving

There’s SUPER cheap ($20-40) paragliding and skydiving in the hills outside of Bishkek.  That’s all I know, but it’s on enough people’s bucket lists that I figured I’d include it here.  Do some Googling, and once I do it, I’ll update this post.

Lodging

Bishkek really has the gamut of lodging options, from the US-standard Hyatt Regency at over $300 to other high-end options like the Golden Tulip, to more budget-friendly options right down to hostel beds that start at $8.  You can check out the exhausting range over at Booking.com.  Here are some of my recommendations:

• Apple Hostel: This hostel has a wonderful vibe from what I’ve heard, and the staff is helpful and will help you organize some of your activities.  They even invite non-guests on some of their trips, like rafting and others.  Located right by the West/New bus station, which is slightly inconvenient, but it’s a good place.  Beds start at $8, with private rooms available for $18 w/o bath and $24 w/bath.  Apple also has a satellite location in Cholpon-Ata in Issyk-Kul if you’re looking for a simple beach getaway.
• InterHouse Hostel: This hostel is also great, and is much more conveniently located (with two locations).  The flip side is that beds start at $15, with private rooms also available.  Their other location can be booked here.
• Viva Hostel Bishkek: A friend of mine runs this hostel very near to Osh Bazaar, and he’s put a lot of effort into keeping it affordable with home-like service.
• Soluxe Hotel: I’ve stayed here a lot for official business, and while I’m not the biggest fan of the location, the actual hotel is very nice and comfortable, with stellar customer service and great breakfast.  Rooms start at about $35.
• Shah Palace Hotel: Probably my favorite place to stay in Bishkek.  Customer service is amazing, the owner is super nice, breakfast is great, and rooms are comfortable, with a pretty convenient location by the stadium.  A room with a double bed starts at $70, so I only ever stay here on business.

Plenty of other places exist and have been suggested to me, but I have a hunch that my average reader isn’t going to splurge on anything more expensive than I’ve got here.  There’s a variety of homestays/apartments you can rent through AirBNB, and a few other hostels around.  So look around – you’ll be sure to find someplace good to stay.  And remember, renting rooms and such in homestays directly benefits local entrepreneurs!

Food

Bishkek’s food scene is massive, and I’m inevitably going to leave something out, but I’ll try to give you my list of favorite places for a bite, including a diverse array of food where I can.  Kyrgyz food is actually surprisingly difficult to find if you don’t know where to look, and I clearly haven’t looked hard enough as evidenced by the fact that I literally only have two places listed on here.

• Jalal-Abad Tea House: This is my number one stop for cheap, local food prepared in the style from Southern Kyrgyzstan. Their plov, manty, and just about everything else is delicious and, most importantly, locally priced.  Lunch can be had for less than $2.  Located on Togolok Moldo between Chui and Kiev.
• Bukhara: Amazing Uzbek food. Has a few locations, including across from Beta Stores, at Shopokov and Jumabeka, and near Sierra Tash Rabat.
• Sierra Coffee: Legendary.  The Starbucks of Bishkek.  With several locations across the city, this chain started by a New Zealander was the gold standard for coffee and cafe fare (check out the chicken caesar wrap and the breakfast omelettes) in Bishkek.  A bit on the pricey side, but it’s one of the few places to buy high-quality coffee in Bishkek.  Main location is on Manas south of Kiev next to the Russian Embassy.
• Chicken Star: OK, so maybe a college classmate of mine runs this place, so I’m biased, but this has to be one of the best restaurants in Bishkek.  It’s so good that I would crave it even in New York City.  The name of the game is Korean Fried Chicken, and alongside plenty of other Korean specialties (including bibimbap and an unreal Oreo-with-ice-and-ice-cream dessert), thanks to the owner Chihoon’s passion for coffee, also serves the unrivaled highest quality pour-over, aeropress, drip, espresso, iced, EVERYTHING in all of Central Asia.  Monday nights are my favorite, since it’s Argentine Tango night.  And Monday-Wednesday, for 300 som you can partake in all-you-can-eat “bizneslanch.”  It’s otherwise on the pricier side (I rarely spend less than 600 som there), but the food is absolutely 100% totally worth it.  It’s located on Erkindik between Kiev and Toktogul.
• Begemot: This chain of fast-food windows has delicious burgers, wraps (called “step-roll”, and probably the best fries in Kyrgyzstan.  Delicious as a mid-afternoon meal, or as a late night snack.
• Nathan’s: The latest obsession, there are now two Nathan’s American hot dog shops here in Bishkek.  Yes, the Nathan’s of the Coney Island Hot Dog Eating Contest.  For just 100 som, you can taste the America again.
• Taksim: Delicious Turkish food, albeit slightly pricey.  On Chui east of Molodoi Gvardia.  Behind it, there is an all-you-can-eat Turkish breakfast buffet which is delicious, cheap, and a favorite for Sunday mornings.
• “Lagman Place”: I don’t know the name, but there’s a small restaurant at the intersection of Togolok Moldo and Jibek Jolu on the southwest corner that has the best lagman I’ve ever had.  It’s super local, so also very reasonably priced.
• “Dungan Place”: Literally nobody knows the name.  It’s on the second floor of a little house with a green awning near Osh Bazaar on Beshenalieva between Moscovskaya and Toktogul.  It’s easier to spot walking from south to north.  Eat the boso lagman or the fried manty or the fried pelmeni.  Obsessed.
• Pizza One: Located on Manas right by the InterHouse, this place actually has some of the best Indian food in Bishkek, and their exhaustive menu of other food makes it a great choice for many.
• Bella Italia: This Italian restaurant is owned and run by a jovial Italian man, and has some incredible pizzas and pastas with a good wine list as well.  They recently moved, and I think their new location is on Shopokov between Frunze and Jibek Jolu, but I’m not sure.
• Stariy Edgar: Fantastic Georgian food.  Located off Tynystanov and Pushkin, behind Southern Fried Chicken.
• Burger House: Popular for burgers, salad, and milkshakes.  On Kiev just east of Ala-Too Square before Erkindik.
• Munchen (formerly “TGI Friday’s”): This place is on the top floor of a random office building at Sovietskaya and Toktogul.  They used to be illegally using the TGI Friday’s logo so they got sued and kept the outline but renamed themselves as Munchen.  It’s a fun place to hang out with good beer and food.
• Smokie’s: An American bar with honest-to-god BBQ.  It’s amazing, but America prices, and also not centrally located.  Suyerkulov St and Jukeeva-Pudovkina St, near Cosmopark and Orto-Sai bazaar.
• Mira: A good pick for Chinese.  Located across from Tsum on Shopokov north of Chui.
• Beijing Duck: Also delicious Chinese, on Chui near Beta Stores
• Vinoteka: A wine and cheese with delicious European food type of place.  Cheese plates start at 200 som for some legitimately amazing locally made cheese.  Located next to Beta Stores on Chui.
• Burrito: The legendary burrito stand makes Chipotle-level yummy burritos for a little over 100 som each, more if you get their twice-annual guacamole.  Located on Sovietskaya at Jantoshev (just north of Akhunbaev which I think is also called Donetskaya).  See the map for the precise location because it’s sometimes hard to find.
• Orozbekov Restaurants: A bunch of places are on Orozbekov between Kiev and Toktogul immediately south of Ala-Too Square.
  • Mexico: “Mexican” food sort of! Salsa/Bachata night on Fridays!  Affordable tequila shots!  Photos from American Halloween costume packaging outside!
  • Greenwich Pub: Great beer and patio, with some food options and excellent hookah as well.
  • Johnny Pub: At the end of the block, another place with good food and beer.  The brownies are divine.
  • Others I haven’t tried but are quite pricey.  But there are some amazing options to be sure: Chinese, Japanese, Kyrgyz…

Map

Bishkek really needs this map because the streets can get confusing.  There’s way more on here than I discussed above, just in case you want more options, or you stay somewhere else, etc.

What else do you want to know about Bishkek?  Any places I forgot to mention?  Let me know in the comments so I can keep building this guide for you!

This blog is part of the BloggingAbroad.org blog challenge, responding to the prompt “Home”  Learn more at BloggingAbroad.org.