One day not too long after moving to Osh, I was walking through a park next to our World War II memorial. Off to the left and up a small path, we came to a second monument covered in names, but we weren’t quite sure what it was for. Then we looked at the banners behind it and saw the unmistakeable image of Mil Mi-26 Halo helicopters hovering over the destroyed shell of Reactor 4 at Chernobyl. But what was this monument to the Chernobyl liquidators doing here, in Osh, Kyrgyzstan over 2000 miles away?
On 26 April 1986, a drill went wrong at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant in what is now northern Ukraine, leading to a nuclear meltdown and explosion that contaminated an enormous part of northern Ukraine and southern Belarus and spread massive amounts of radioactive material into a plume that was measured around the world. Much of Eastern Europe and Scandinavia still is affected by the fallout.
The damage and pollution from the disaster required an enormous mobilization of people to control and clean up, and over 600,000 “liquidators” were eventually involved in the process. Their efforts helped reduce the negative impacts of the disaster but at an enormous cost. While less than 50 deaths are actually directly attributed to the disaster, many thousands of the Chernobyl liquidators have since passed away from illnesses related to their time working at Chernobyl.
As it turns out, the Chernobyl liquidators were servicemen, some in the Red Army, from across the entire Soviet Union, not just from Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus. About 4,500-5,000 of them were from Kyrgyzstan, but only about 1,300-1,750 of them are still alive today, 31 years later (sources vary on the exact figures). Many were conscripted to go work at the site without having ever known what had happened thanks to the news blackout on the disaster in the aftermath.
In many cities and towns across Kyrgyzstan, the remaining Chernobyl liquidators mark the solemn anniversary date of 26 April with memorials, remembrances, and occasionally some celebrations and storytelling. For them, it is a way to reconnect and laugh with their friends who are still alive and to pay tribute to those who have fallen. They certainly are not forgotten, with celebrations and formal memorials in many places around the country.
Furthermore, there are a few special categories of pension in Kyrgyzstan and in many other former Soviet Union countries for Chernobyl liquidators, including a supplement, a disability supplement, and an old-age supplement that is equal to veterans of World War II. While these pensions are small, they still show commitment to these people on the parts of many governments. While it is not much comfort to those who have lost family and friends, many lessons were learned from this disaster that greatly reduced the human toll of the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster.
I was really surprised to see the memorial, and even more surprised to learn that I had actually met surviving Kyrgyzstani Chernobyl liquidators (without knowing their past). It was a good reminder that, while the Chernobyl disaster may have been 31 years ago in the far southwest of the USSR, it continues to affect the entirety of Eurasia.
If you’re interested in reading more about Chernobyl, I highly recommend the 2005 book Voices from Chernobyl, by Ukrainian-born Belorussian writer Svetlana Alexievich, which provides an incredible set of human stories and experiences in the aftermath of the disaster. In 2015, she won the Nobel Prize in Literature for her work.
Hi Mark,
I’m going to Osh later in May and I’d love to go see the monument… Have you got its whereabouts?
Chernobyl is a bit of a personal affair, as I was born some 4 months after the thing blew up and my mother had to carry a dosimeter on herself from May-June onwards. We lived quite far (and on the other side of the Curtain) from Ukraine, but it seemed that the isotopes were carried out by the wind and ended up in our side of the Alps in abnormal quantities… Glacier water and ice from that year and the following one is still quite radioactive!
Thanks for the brilliant blog
Fabrizio
Hey Fabrizio! As I mentioned in the post, it’s located right next to the WWII memorial, just south of the mayor’s office on Kurmanjan Datka. It’s also on the Osh Destination Guide map that I have at the end of that post!