This blog originally dates to the summer I spent on a Critical Language Program in Tajikistan. One of the biggest questions I’m always asked about Tajikistan is usually some variation of “where on Earth is THAT?” or “What do they speak there?” I remember I actually had to spell out on the phone with my bank “T-a-j-i-k-i-s-t-a-n,” and explain where it is. I like to think that it’s for the reason that everyone’s favorite Miss Teen South Carolina would cite, namely that “some people out there in our nation…don’t…have…maps…” It certainly doesn’t help that all of its neighbors (save China) are also “-stans,” and that it is one of seven countries that end in -stan (more if you start including smaller areas like Baluchistan and Dagestan). Regardless, I thought it wise to include a primer on this fascinating place.
Tajikistan itself is the smallest and poorest of the post-Soviet states, with a population of just over seven million. Its name literally means “land of the Tajiks,” derived from the Persian word for “province,” which is “ostan.” With its mountainous topography in a remote corner of the Soviet Union, it remained in the shadows with the one notable exception of being the launching point for the Soviet Union’s invasion attempts of Afghanistan in the 1980’s, and as the location of a secret laser array in Tom Clancy’s The Cardinal in the Kremlin.
The country’s borders were formed in the early USSR, when the Central Asian plateau was divided into separate Soviet Socialist Republics (SSR’s) for each of several groups (as defined by the Soviet government – these things never are perfectly clean cut). The five SSR’s eventually specialized their economies as well. Today, over half of Tajikistan’s exports are aluminium (a single aluminium smelter reportedly consumes 40% of the country’s electricity), and cotton and apricots make up another fifth. A civil war from 1992 to 1997 left many dead and the economy severely constrained. Since then, the country has been on a path of peace and recovery, however because so much of the people’s income is dependent on overseas migrant workers (over one third of GDP), the country is very sensitive to global economic shifts. At the same time, this mixture of labor and mining has allowed Tajikistan to make the transition to capitalism with very little economic aid in comparison to other planned economies, a very impressive feat. It has even managed to repay many of its foreign debts. In addition, the country reports (which is not the same as “has”) a 99.5% literacy rate, and most of the population is bi- or tri-lingual because of the need to communicate equally well in both Tajik, Russian, and also occasionally in Uzbek.
Tajikistan is also known for its mountains. Half the country is above 10,000 feet, and trekking is the main source of tourist revenue. The Pamir mountains dominate the remote parts of the country, and the hills and peaks provide a dramatic backdrop to the humble people and cities. I highly recommend trying to find a few pictures on the internet machine, or taking a look through some of my Instagram photos.
Indeed what I was most excited about in Tajikistan (and what I miss the most) was the people and the culture. Tajikistan shares much of its history and cultural heritage with Iran and Afghanistan, the other two countries where Persian is spoken. That means some spectacular art and architecture, beautiful poetry and literature, and a people whose generosity puts the Midwest to shame. All of the students in my program lived with host families, and it is in that setting that one learns the most and builds the most special memories. My little host sisters were 3 and 5, and I dearly miss my host mother, host grandmother, and their relatives who welcomed me to this most special of places.
In short, Tajikistan fascinated. It challenged. It mystified. But most of all, it has stayed with me as a beautiful place at the roof of the world, welcoming all of those who take the extra effort to travel to the ends of the earth.
Want to plan your own trip to Tajikistan? Check out my Tajikistan Travel Tips!
In the vein of the great scholars of my generation, I must attribute the above information about Tajikistan to Wikipedia.org.