Mile 26: Reflections From My COS Flight

Most of this post was written one year ago as I left Kyrgyzstan.

We touched down in Istanbul at about 9:30, and we all moved quickly to security, visas, and customs. One by one, as we cleared, each person, without realizing it, left our group, and I watched over my shoulder as the old man in the kalpak got his passport stamped and went off to his next destination.  I was alone, without anyone from Kyrgyzstan, for the first time in months, surrounded by travelers from all seven continents. Continue reading “Mile 26: Reflections From My COS Flight”

Back In Batken Oblast

On a hot Thursday one year ago, just over a week before I left Kyrgyzstan, I made a small piece of Peace Corps Kyrgyz Republic history: I became the first volunteer in nearly two decades to lead a project in Batken Oblast.  It doesn’t sound like a big deal if you don’t know Peace Corps Kyrgyzstan very well, so let me start from the beginning with an overview of what Batken is and why it’s so cool. Continue reading “Back In Batken Oblast”

A Few Stunning Videos Of Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan has become a popular subject as of late for some amazing amateur and professional filmmakers who have accidentally or deliberately stumbled upon its splendor.  I’ve been wanting to share some of these for a while, in the hopes that they’ll spark more interest in visiting the region. Continue reading “A Few Stunning Videos Of Kyrgyzstan”

How To Call Your Senator Or Representative In Congress

On January 28th, I penned a Facebook status that went a little bit more than viral – it had over 17,000 reactions, 1,400 comments, and 32,000 shares.  But it had nothing to do with Central Asia or my current work: It was all about how to call your senator or representative in Congress. Continue reading “How To Call Your Senator Or Representative In Congress”

Music Obsession: Quando Bate Aquela Saudade by Rubel

South America introduced me to all kinds of new music, almost all of which has been Spanish pop and Tango.  But I’ve also discovered a love for another genre from Brazil, which my Brazilian friends have called “Brazilian folk,” but might be best described as a sort of acoustic singer-songwriter genre in Portuguese.  All of the music is beautiful and chill, and is the sort of music that might be played in a beachfront resort.  Of all of this music, I have a favorite song right now: Quando Bate Aquela Saudade by Rubel from their album Pearl.

OK, so watch and listen and try and tell me that you don’t already know what the song is about and the emotions it is discussing.

But in case you couldn’t figure it out from the title, the song is about saudade, which is one of those incredible loanwords that simply cannot be translated from its original Portuguese.  Saudade is an emotion that I can best describe as a profound sadness (all the online definitions use “melancholy” but I’m trying to sound less elitist than I clearly am) that comes from missing something, someone, or a time that may or will never return.

Picture a woman in the 1500’s sending her husband, a sailor, on a year-long voyage to explore the world.  There’s no certainty that he’s going to come back or that he’ll be the same.  There’s no certainty that they will regain the happiness they had before.  That emotion of nostalgic sadness is saudade.

You probably know this emotion much better than your realize, even though English lacks a word to describe it.  Supposedly, it is a defining emotion of Porguguese and Brazilian people.  The closest translation in English might be “the blues” in AAVE.

So, back to Quando Bate Aquela Saudade.  Listening to the melody, can you feel that emotion I’ve just described?  Good, now let’s look at the lyrics.

Quando Bate Aquela Saudade by Rubel

É você que tem
Os olhos tão gigantes
E a boca tão gostosa
Eu não vou aguentar

Senta aqui do lado
E tira logo a roupa
E esquece o que não importa
Nem vamos conversar

Olha bem, mulher
Eu vou te ser sincero
Quero te ver de branco
Quero te ver no altar

Não tem medo, não
Eu sei, vai dar errado
A gente fica longe
E volta a namorar depois

Olha bem, mulher
Eu vou te ser sincero
Eu tô com uma vontade danada
de te entregar todos beijos que eu não te dei
E eu tô com uma saudade apertada de ir dormir bem cansado
E de acordar do teu lado pra te dizer
Que eu te amo
Que eu te amo demais

Olha bem, mulher
Eu vou te ser sincero
Quero te ver de branco
Quero te ver no altar

Não tem medo, não
A gente fica longe
A gente até se esconde
E volta a namorar depois

Que é você que tem
Os olhos tão gigantes
E a boca tão gostosa
Eu não vou aguentar

Olha bem, mulher
Eu vou te ser sincero
Eu tô com uma vontade danada
de te entregar todos beijos que eu não te dei
E eu tô com uma saudade apertada de ir dormir bem cansado
E de acordar do teu lado pra te dizer
Que eu te amo
Que eu te amo demais

Eu tô com uma vontade danada
de te entregar todos beijos que eu não te dei
E eu tô com uma saudade apertada de ir dormir bem cansado
E de acordar do teu lado pra te dizer
Que eu te amo
Que eu te amo demais

I know you all read Portuguese fluently, right?  Just kidding, here they are in English:

Quando Bate Aquela Saudade by Rubel

It’s you who has
Those big eyes
And that delicious mouth
I cannot resist

Sit here by my side
And take off your clothes
Forget what doesn’t matter
Let’s not even talk about it

Take a good look, woman
I will be honest with you
I want to see you in white
I want to see you at the altar

Don’t be afraid, please don’t
I know, it won’t work
We’ll stay away
And we go back to dating after

Take a good look, woman
I will be honest with you

I want so goddamn much
to give you all the kisses I couldn’t
And I’ve been missing so much going to sleep tired
and waking up by your side
To tell you that I love you
That I love you so much

Take a good look, woman
I will be honest with you
I want to see you in white
I want to see you at the altar

Don’t be afraid, please don’t
I know it won’t work
We even hide ourselves
And we go back to dating after

It’s you who has
Those big eyes
And that delicious mouth
I cannot resist

Take a good look, woman
I will be honest you

I want so goddamn much
to give you all the kisses I couldn’t
And I’ve been missing so much going to sleep tired
and waking up by your side
To tell you that I love you
That I love you so much

I want so goddamn much
to give you all the kisses I couldn’t
And I’ve been missing so much going to sleep tired
and waking up by your side
To tell you that I love you
That I love you so much

(lyrics from LyricsTranslate.com, with some corrections by me)

They basically speak for themselves, don’t they?  This song is so quiet but so beautiful.  Does it evoke the same saudade for you as it does for me?  Because something about this song connects for me and I can’t stop thinking about it or listening to it.  Let me know what you think about Quando Bate Aquela Saudade the comments below!

What Is Tango?

I’ve been living in Buenos Aires for a little over a week, and I just finished the first week of classes at DNI Tango, a tango school here renowned for its focus on technique.  And it has been nothing short of MAGICAL.  First of all, though, before I dive into life here, I should dive into what exactly tango is.

 

When you think of tango, what do you picture?  Raise your hand if you picture this:

🙋🏽‍♂️

OK so technically tango is a social floor dance, but these are the photos I have of me doing what you might think of as a stereotypical tango.  But, since I’ve arrived here, I’ve learned a whole lot more about this dance in its purest, most Rioplatinese form. (also spoiler, the third photo is actually from a rumba-bolero-we-arent-sure-what-to-call-it!)

Tango is a form of social dance traditional to the Rio de la Plata, which forms the border between Argentina and Uruguay, but it was also modified and influenced by a few other countries and cultures along the way.  At first, it was a working-class dance between men in warehouses and other places in Buenos Aires and Montevideo.  In fact, the word “tango” was supposedly in use in 1789 referring to parties thrown by slaves.

The dance itself has been influenced heavily by the cosmopolitan nature of Argentina as a country of immigrants, with visible influences from France, Italy, Cuba, Spain, slaves, and others.  One of the single biggest influences came in 1910, when the first bandoneón (the “tango accordion”) arrived in Buenos Aires from Germany.

The dance stayed super localized until the 1900’s, when a series of orchestras from Buenos Aires traveled around Europe, igniting a craze that swept Paris, London, New York, and bizarrely, Finland.  As it became fashionable in Europe, so did it among the upper classes of Argentina as well.

Tango, in its original Argentine form (I’m going to refer to it this way for clarity, even though the origins of the dance are shared with Uruguay), is danced in the so-called “close embrace,” the abrazo cerrado, which is similar to a hug where the dancers maintain contact in the chest, with one hand in hand and the other arm around the back of the other dancer.  This connection in the chest means that the dancers are literally dancing cheek to cheek.  This embrace (it is never called a “hold” or a “frame”) is one of the hallmarks of the dance and creates its powerful introverted intimacy.

Close Embrace

Now imagine how that went over in high society in 1910, a society that was previously scandalized by the waltz.  WALTZ.

So naturally, the dance was spun off into the more “acceptable” ballroom style, doing away with the close embrace and replacing it with a more standard set of ballroom holds, standardized steps, and so on that is still practiced today as the ballroom tango in the American and International styles.

Unlike the standardized ballroom dances, though, the Argentine tango has no set steps.  It has no basic step, and no standardized combinations of steps that are pieced together and have been the same for decades.  Instead, the entire dance is improvised, each time that it is danced.  And unlike the tangos of figure skating, these tangos have passion, introversion, humor, and yes, even some playfulness, far more levels than are explored in the ballroom and ice tangos. Now watch this video from the 2012 World Championships.

Yes, that was IMPROVISED.  In fact, the entire dance is taught using “structures” and elements, and then teaching you to combine them in different ways, with different entries, exits, tempos, feelings, and such.  With all of this, the dance itself has actually continued to evolve, and a different style emerges between individual dancers and between different couples.

And perhaps another major difference: the Argentine tango is still chiefly a social dance, as evidenced by the preponderance of milongas in Buenos Aires, a tango party where a live band or a DJ will play different styles of dance music with strict social codes for asking to dance and continuing for a certain number of songs, and so on.  People of all ages come to dance everything from simple intimate walks to dramatic quick changes of direction with sweeping ochos and boleos and pauses in perfect time with the character and timing of the music.

This improvisation and individualization mean that every couple will have their own feel for the dance, their own favorite steps and combinations, and their own look – and when they trade partners over the course of a night out, new figures and characters will again emerge.  In fact, there are people who attend milongas solely to watch the dancers as they create and recreate new and old shapes and steps.

And therein lies the magic… every dance contains a surprise and something delightful and new with each new measure of music.  A pause, a quick step here, a moment there, all focused inward creating a dynamic magnetism that makes it impossible to stop watching… and makes it that much more magical when you are dancing it yourself.

 

Mile 25: It’s Over. Finally.

This post was written in real-time on May 23.  I apologize for the delay in uploading!

I’m sitting at the airport in Bishkek.  It’s 5:30AM.  Over the next 31 hours, I will fly almost 10,000 miles to my parents’ house in Seattle, the last of the 67,067 miles I will have flown on a total of 74 flights during the past two years.  I’ve been free of Peace Corps for 12 hours.  And the sense of relief is overwhelming. Continue reading “Mile 25: It’s Over. Finally.”

The Russian Banya in Central Asia

Across the world, people have come up with a variety of ways to keep clean, from the humble bucket bath familiar to Peace Corps Volunteers across Africa to fancy shower rooms and face masks of South Korea.  In Kyrgyzstan, many are surprised to learn that most locals have adopted the Russian banya, a type of sauna, as the bathing solution of choice.  But what exactly is a banya? Continue reading “The Russian Banya in Central Asia”

Swarm Of Earthquakes Strikes Chong-Alay Region

It didn’t make headlines internationally, but the Chong-Alay region that I’ve been doing so much work with has in the past week has experienced a swarm of 11 earthquakes above 4.5 magnitude (out of 16 total recorded).  The largest of these, around 5.9 magnitude according to USGS (initially reported as 7.0 by local authorities, now said to be 6.5) on May 3rd, was strong enough to evacuate some buildings in Osh, and several of the aftershocks have been up to 5.8 in magnitude.  Technically, they were centered in Tajikistan, but their heaviest impact has been felt here. They may not have made international headlines or even local headlines, but they have been devastating nonetheless.  I want to share with you a bit of what I’ve been able to learn about the situation. Continue reading “Swarm Of Earthquakes Strikes Chong-Alay Region”