Language Lessons: Greetings in Kyrgyz

I’ve spent so much time in Kyrgyz language class in the past two weeks that I figured that it was about time for me to write a little bit of a lesson for everyone back home!

Greetings in Kyrgyz are a major part of the culture. It is polite and appropriate to greet people you see as you go about the village, in ways particular to the age and gender of the person to whom you are speaking. The most common form that I use is салом алеикум (salom aleikum), which you may recognize from other countries that have large Muslim populations. This greeting is used between men only.

Another greeting we use frequently is саламатсызбы (salamatsyzby, where the y makes a sort of “uh sound between an i and a u), which literally means “are you healthy.” The proper response to that is саламатчылык (salamatchylyk). I use this to greet women around age and older, and women use this to greet anyone around their age or older.

The third frequent greeting is easier, салам (salam), which means “peace,” and is an informal greeting that I use with people younger than me, mostly kids, and with friends. The rule of thumb we use is that if someone is more than two years older than you, that you must use the formal greeting.

We then ask, “how are you,” which is кандайсыз (kandaisyz). The proper response is жакшы, рахмат (jakshy, rakhmat), which means “I am well, thank you.” Often we ask the same question, or а сизчи? (a sizchi?), meaning “and you?”

It’s a quick and easy exchange, and goes somewhat like this:

Me: саламатсызбы!
Villager: саламатчылык!
Me: кандайсыз?
Villager: жакшы, рахмат, кандайсыз?
Me: мен жакшы, рахмат.

As you probably noticed, cyrillic is the alphabet used here, but it’s not too different when you use it regularly. The pronunciation isn’t too bad – the challenge is that there are nine vowel letters in Kyrgyz, а, ы, о, у, э, е, и, ө, and ү, not counting the dipthong vowels used in many Russian words (ё, ю, and я), and as you might imagine, several of those sounds aren’t used in English.

Oh, and there’s vowel harmony. Next week. On Monday Bazaar.

Victory Day

 

In the US, the more militarily minded of families tends to observe in some capacity V-E Day, or Victory In Europe Day, or the equivalent from the Pacific campaign of World War II. But I’ve never seen anything remotely resembling the scale of the celebrations here of Victory Day, which marks the same occasion. You might have seen a few pictures or video clips on this on American television or news websites, but seeing it here from within the former USSR has been a very different experience.

Part of the reason for this may be that this is the 70th anniversary, which might command a larger celebration than otherwise, but part is simply because to the countries that fought on the Eastern Front paid a much larger price in lives; the USSR accounts for something like half of the deaths of the entire war, more even than Germany. Stalingrad did not have a happy ending (although it now has the world’s tallest statue, which is really both spectacularly beautiful and a marvel of engineering. It’s also sliding off its foundation slightly).

Over the past few days, we’ve seen a lot of Russian fighter jets flying over Bishkek and over the surrounding areas preparing for aerial demonstrations, and everyone was talking about the parade and the celebrations for days. Despite the rain, on TV we watched downton Bishkek fill up, and the newly minted Prime Minister give a speech about the holiday in the main square before a large military parade went by and the fighters did a fly-by.

The real spectacle came on Russian television, which broadcasts several Russian-language channels here, right alongside China Central Television Russia.

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Kyrgyz Life Hacks: Tea With Preserves

Every country puts its own twist on a large varieties of food; Iran likes to put ketchup on its pizza, the US for some reason enjoys water in its espresso americano, and someone, somewhere decided anchovies belonged on pizza. Well, Kyrgyzstan presented me with one such unusual combination, but it’s one that I’m telling you all that you absolutely MUST try at home: using fruit preserves as tea sweetener.

That sounds strange right? At first glance, taking a spoonful of homemade варенье and plopping it into a cup of hot black or green tea may sound strange. You’ll just have to trust me that this is not only a delicious modification that gets you truly natural fruit-flavored tea, but also one that I’ve found helps settle my stomach.

The recipe is simple: take a cup of green or black tea and mix in 1-3 teaspoons of natural fruit preserves. Raspberry, strawberry, blackberry… they all make great candidates, especially if they’re natural and made by hand in Kyrgyzstan. People here drink a lot of tea, and this is an easy way to mix up your tea flavors beyond just the ordinary colors.

When I first saw my host family doing this, I was shocked – I’d never even remotely thought of mixing anything other than honey or sugar into my tea (side note: the honey here is all natural and all DELICIOUS). They encouraged me to try it, and now I drink about a quarter of my tea with one of their homemade selections mixed in (I’m trying to drink most of it without sweeteners because I’ve got enough processed sugar in my diet as is and I’m fond of my teeth).

Also on the subject of tea, green tea here is called “blue” tea, as it is in many countries in this region, and we drink it on occasion.

If you try it and like it, let me know in the comments below!

UPDATE: Somehow, I overlooked that this very life hack actually appears in my favorite book series, His Dark Materials, while one of the characters is traveling to Central Asia from Siberia.  Props to Philip Pullman!

 

My House

 

We’ve been here in our village for a week now, and I’m in love with it. I had told many of my friends about how excited I was to be coming back to Central Asia, and I truly meant it, but I had no idea both how much I had missed it here and how much I would love it when I got back. I also didn’t know what to expect in terms of differences between my new experiences in Kyrgyzstan and my previous ones in Tajikistan. But it’s all far exceeded everything I wanted for it to be.

I live in a small village in the valley of the capital city, Bishkek, and will be here throughout my training over the next two months. There are about 2,800 people in the village, and there are about 4-6 stores, the largest of which is smaller than the average 7/11 in the US. We’re mostly clustered within a five to ten minute walk of the main road, so the village is long and narrow (kind of like the Boston University campus), but all of our group is clustered a short walk from the house where we have our language classes.

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Orientation

 

Our orientation was a complete whirlwind, but it’s a good thing that we had it to help us ease into the structure that is guiding us through the first two months of our time in this beautiful country. The hardest part wasn’t remembering everything, but remaining awake for the three days, the first of which began the second we touched down in country.

First off, family and friends worried about me will be happy to know that we have a great staff taking care of us here in the Kyrgyz Republic. They have thought of just about everything, and if they hadn’t thought of it pre-emptively, then they have things because of actual experiences that previous people have had. Not everyone will need a mosquito net or Tums, but we will be happy we have them when we do! This is definitely the softest landing I’ve ever had coming into an extended period outside the US.

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The Arrival

 

Note: This post was posted late due to lack of internet access. We have been here and safe for over two weeks now.

We made it to Kyrgyzstan. Our group was missing about half of our bags (surprisingly left behind in Frankfurt during a short layover, and not lost in Istanbul as was feared), with delays on nearly all of the flights, crowned by a massive 4-hour delay leaving Istanbul that had most of our group sleeping on the floor of the gate 204 boarding area alongside the entire Kyrgyz men’s hockey team, which was returning from a successful tournament in Kuwait. But we made it, and at the time of this posting, everyone has all of their luggage, amazingly.

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Notes On A Countdown

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This is how I’m coping with my last day of packing.

I cope with stress in a rather unusual way: by counting down. For months now, I’ve been counting down the days until I leave for Kyrgyzstan (1), the days until we are sworn in (59), the days until our close of service (825), and the days to several other milestones along the way.

Countdowns allow me to break down life into manageable chunks of time, which paradoxically usually involves increasing the number of units. A year sounds like a really long time, when in reality, it’s a sequence of 12 months, or 52 weeks, or 365 days. A day is broken down to about 16 waking hours, and if experience has shown, days bleed into weeks into years very quickly.

I don’t remember exactly when I started doing this. I think it probably had something to do with measuring out skating practice sessions. Every session, which was about 45 minutes, we usually had to do a full performance of our program, sometimes twice. Now, that performance at the height of my career took about 3 minutes and 30 seconds of all out sprinting. Naturally, that’s not a particularly pleasant experience from a pain standpoint. But I had just survived 3 minutes and 30 seconds immediately before, and immediately before that, and immediately before that. In fact, it’s less than the length of an average pop song. If I could sprint for the length of a pop song, then I could make it to the end of that program.

I used hours to break down standardized tests in high school. If a test was four hours, then I could easily make it through by taking it one hour at a time. “This will all be over by lunchtime,” was a frequent mantra. Now I use the same tactic when I run marathons. It’s just 26 repetitions of running for 10 minutes, albeit with a few hills, dancing hamburgers, and maybe a few spilled Dixie cups of Gatorade.

When I first heard the phrase “525,600 minutes” in the opening of the musical Rent, I thought to myself, “is that ALL? Are there really only that many minutes in a year?” A minute is such, if you’ll pardon the pun, a minute measure of time that, when I phrase my service in terms of “two sets of 525,600 minutes,” it really doesn’t seem that long after all.

In fact, two years can go by faster than you might think. I lived in Europe for two years, and that came and went in a flash. I spent two years at one college, then two years in another, and have been out of school for about two years now. Two years goes by much faster than we care to admit, and now that I’ve managed to break it down into chunks of months (Half of this year, all of 2016, and half of 2017, with a few months tacked on either end), it really doesn’t seem like that long of a time at all.

One of the added benefits of counting? I found out that I’ll be departing for Kyrgyzstan on the 8888th day of my life. If Chinese superstition regarding the number 8 is to be believed, then I’m in for a pretty awesome twenty-seven months.

I mean, 825 days. And counting.

The Teahouse in the Garage

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I enjoy doing yoga in unusual places. Here, I’m in Rose Valley near Göreme in central Turkey.

On Monday, I was at a yoga class led by a friend of mine whom I’ve been doing yoga with whenever I’m in Seattle ever since the studio opened three years ago (definitely check it out if you’re in Seattle or Portland at The Grinning Yogi). She always shares with us interesting anecdotes and stories that help us grasp an idea to focus on during the class, and as I sat parked in child’s pose, she told us one that resonated particularly strongly with what I’ve been going through in my preparations for Kyrgyzstan.

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Pack Unpack Rinse Repeat

Moving once, moving twice, moving thrice? I seriously need to look at my life and look at my choices, because between Friday of last week and the time I leave for Kyrgyzstan in three weeks, I’ll have packed and unpacked my life a total of three times.  That’s a lot of time to look at just how much stuff I’ve managed to accumulate in six years living on the East Coast.

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Two Weeks Left in DC

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Two roads diverged in a yellow wood on a recent run. I picked the one with four inches of snow.

The countdown is getting real – there’s exactly one month left until I pull the final zipper shut on my duffels and, very casually, hop a plane to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan.  This countdown also happens to mean that I have only two weeks left in my current home of Washington, DC, where I have lived since September.  I’ve got to do everything… take the GRE, sell my furniture (done), somehow dispense with my large collection of books, throw away a lot of useless trinkets, pack up the ones I like, and work my last week in the office before that.  And that’s before I get my ducks in a row back at my parents’ house in Seattle, visit family in California, and then finally put the things I need into the duffels that will have to carry me through the 27 months in a place that, so far, looks just as beautiful as I’ve imagined.

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