Managing Marshrutkas

A few marshrutkas in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

Dushanbe is a small city, but it’s even easier to get around than you might think.  Everything is only a few blocks off of the main drag, Rudaki avenue, and if that weren’t enough, there is a robust network of public (and easily accessible private) transportation.

Easily most visible are the rusty trolleybuses that ply Rudaki as bus route 1, many of which have a Tajik flag billowing on a little mast above the driver’s cab.  You step on at any of three doors, and pay an attendant one Somoni for the ride.  As many a Tajik have learned, you then assess where the sun has been hitting the vehicle most recently.  Since Rudaki runs north-south, depending on the time of day, one side of the bus is considerably hotter than the other because it’s in direct sunlight.  Maybe that’s why so many people looked at me strangely for the three days I chose to sit on the sunny side of the bus before realizing on the fourth that the right side of the bus was a good twenty degrees cooler. Continue reading “Managing Marshrutkas”

One Week Countdown

Having bid my family farewell at the airport a few hours ago, it would seem that I am now officially a fully fledged independent adult, or as it keeps on being portrayed to me, “a member of the fellowship of educated men and women,” although I wish they said “people.”  I am a member who, in precisely one week, will be climbing onto a series of jets over the course of two days to travel to Tajikistan.  The belongings are stored, and the duffel is (almost) packed.  It’s finally hit me that this is really happening.

Continue reading “One Week Countdown”

A Preparation

Leaving home is never easy.  Leaving a home and knowing that you are leaving your community for good is even harder.  This was my life this week as I packed up my 6th and final dormitory room from my four years of university over the course of eight hours the morning after I graduated.  In frantic runs to the ZipCar and the storage unit, one Lululemon bag after another piled up in boxes and in my temporary room that I am occupying until Thursday.  It is from this pile that I will carefully select the 20 kilos of belongings that will travel with me on the two-day journey to Dushanbe.  By 20 kilos, of course, we really mean 15, because I will buy at least 5 more kilos of gifts and souvenirs while I am in Tajikistan, I’m sure.

With family and friends punctuating each day, I wonder to myself how will this departure, as not a side-note to a larger university education or job, but rather a transitional interlude between chapters, will register in my mind.  Is this an end or a beginning?  Or is this somewhere in the middle?  Too many farewells have taken place in the past three days to call it exclusively a beginning, but too much is about to happen to call it exclusively an end.

I guess I’ll just have to live in the middle for now.  The middle of my piles of things, that is.