Uzbekistan is a fascinating country. It’s been a province of dozens of empires, and the centre of many others. Its history is rich with culture from tens of different ethnicities and four of the major world religions. And it’s a place with an incredibly well-developed tourism infrastructure that makes it easier than ever to see the historical cornucopia of culture. I really want to continue adding to this, so if you have specific questions, please comment or send me an email so I can answer them directly or in a new post!
The Easy Way: Advantour
I went to Uzbekistan with my parents, and we wanted the tour to be easy, and they were willing to pay a bit extra for that. So we used a tour company called Advantour, which has a fantastic amount of experience in the region. Every part of our tour was arranged and confirmed in advance, and the entire experience was wonderful and went like clockwork. If you want to experience Uzbekistan without having to worry about language, taxis, police inspections, or anything like that, consider traveling with Advantour. This isn’t a paid endorsement (nothing on my blog is) – I just was so happy with the tour we went on that I want to recommend them since they’re a great way to explore this part of the world worry-free.
Getting There
Luckily for you, Tashkent is the largest city in Central Asia, so getting to Uzbekistan by air is extremely easy. There are regular flights on Aeroflot, Air Astana, Turkish Airlines, China Southern Airlines, Korean Air, and Uzbekistan Airways, and other carriers offer less than daily service (Kyrgyzstan has three or four flights a week, for example).
Entering Uzbekistan by land is a bit different. Because of the constantly evolving security situation in the region, Uzbekistan frequently opens and closes land borders, often without much advance warning. Sometimes these closures are long-term (the border with Tajikistan at Penjikent, for instance, has been closed for years), while others it is more temporary (the Dostuk border crossing in Osh opens and closes with regularity, and sometimes will allow foreigners across even when it is officially closed). The borders with Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan are consistently open, from what I understand. The Afghan border is almost always closed. Thus, before you plan overland travel in Uzbekistan, be sure that your selected borders are open.
Visas
Uzbekistan likes to keep track of who enters and exits the country. Thus, just about everyone is required to have a visa and to submit to detailed customs exams upon arrival. Visa applications for most countries require a letter of invitation (LOI) from a travel agent in Uzbekistan. The United States is one of the few that doesn’t, but the application does ask for hotel addresses and which regions you plan to visit. Thankfully, the visa application is online, so you fill it out, upload a photo, print the form, then bring the materials to an embassy or a consulate (be sure to check which consulate handles your region – people from Seattle must submit to a consulate in New York, not the embassy in DC, for example).
In Bishkek, I called the embassy and got an appointment (they handle visas from 10am to 1pm Tues-Friday as of Sep 2016, but confirm), then took my form with a photo to the Embassy. The new embassy is located by the Oxford School in a gated neighborhood. The guards don’t like letting people through, so you may get harassed. But “appointment” is really a fluid word – they just open at 10am, and accept applications until 1. In Bishkek, they are very strict about putting the EXACT day you plan to enter UZ on the form. They don’t care about the end date, though, so do the smart thing and get it for the maximum validity (20 days) just in case. You call back after a week to see if it’s approved, and if it’s approved, you can come in after that during the next visa hours to tell them to find your application, get a payment slip, SPRINT to the nearest KICB bank office before lunchtime (easiest is to take the bus up Manas to their branch near the centre), then SPRINT back to the embassy before they take their lunch at 1pm, although the lady was nice enough to let me in at the end of their lunch at 2pm to get my visa then.
Canadians must apply for the visa, then it is issued on arrival in Tashkent. Some other countries may handle it this way as well. Bring appropriate cash to pay for the visa.
Important Customs Information
Uzbekistan has very strict customs regulations. When you enter the country, you will be asked to fill out two copies of a customs declaration form. I personally recommend waiting until you get your passport stamped and are by baggage claim in Tashkent Airport to fill it out, as there are English samples there you can use to guide you.
The forms require you to declare all foreign cash you have with you (USD and Euros in particular), all your valuables (jewelry, precious stones and metals (wedding rings, etc), and all your electronics/goods (phones, cameras, computers etc.), how many of them, and their value.
It’s very important to fill these sections out accurately, because customs officers have been known to search bags and count your cash. You are not allowed to take more cash out of Uzbekistan than you declare on this form, otherwise they may confiscate it, so be sure you fill it out accurately (and I personally recommend carrying in some cash to boost your numbers on it just in case).
One form will be inspected and stamped by the customs officer as they x-ray and inspect your bags, while the other is given back to you to keep. It’s VERY important that you keep this form, as you need it to change money into Uzbek som using official money changing booths. You also must hand it in when you leave the country (when you will fill out an additional two copies of the form). I personally recommend carrying paperclips attached to your passport so you can be sure it is clipped in appropriately.
Lastly, as with all countries in this region, you must carry your passport with your visa in it at all times, along with all of your registration slips from your hotels (more on that in a second). While I traveled with a tour, independent travelers WILL be stopped and have their documents checked on a very regular basis.
Where To Stay
As I mentioned above, Uzbekistan has some great hotel infrastructure, especially in places like Bukhara, Khiva, and Samarkand. Book them in advance during high season (March-May and September-November). Tashkent hotels can get expensive. Note that all hotels will keep your passport for a little while when you first check in so they can register you with the authorities. This may sound a bit strange, but it’s part of the Uzbek system. After they register you, they will issue you a card, stamp, or a paper slip that you must keep in your passport and show to authorities when requested. I recommend carrying paperclips in your passport so you can be sure you don’t lose any of these cards.
Money
Money in Uzbekistan is an interesting situation. The official currency is the Uzbek som/sum (I’ve seen it spelled both ways), which you can’t exchange outside Uzbekistan, but many places will accept dollars (and happily issue you change in 1’s, 5’s and 20’s because they use it as a second currency in tourist areas). The sum is, at official rates, about 3000 to 1 USD. You can withdraw USD from many ATM’s in Uzbekistan, or you can carry in your cash (which I actually recommend). And official money changers will, with your passport (they need a photocopy), gladly change your money at the official rate, issuing you a certificate of official conversion that shows you are allowed to have that much money with you. If you think you might want to convert some som back at the end of the trip, these changers will also take your declaration you filled out at the airport, stamp and sign it like ten times, and issue you a different certificate that authorizes you to change money back at a later date. It’s generally best to spend it all, though, rather than convert it back.
Now here’s where the money gets interesting. Just a disclaimer – I do not advocate in any way illegal activity. But since every traveler will encounter it, I have to include it: the Uzbek som has an unofficial exchange rate of about 7000 som to the dollar as of Sep 2016 (6400 if you use a hotel desk clerk, 6000 if your guide helps you find a money changer). This unofficial exchange rate is the one that will be used to convert prices to and from dollars at stores (so if a store tells you something is 12000 som, they will ask you for 2 dollars, not 4). Hotel clerks, random dudes on the street, and creepy men with backpacks will offer to change money at these rates. This is technically illegal, but many tourists do it. Just know that you are subject to a fine if you are caught. Also, no unofficially changed money can be changed back usually – so you’ve got to spend it before you leave if you don’t want a lovely collection of worn out bills from 2001 (thankfully there’s a tchotchke shop before customs at the airport).
The som has denominations of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, and coins down to one tyiyn (cent). As you noticed, the largest bill is still worth less than 1 USD at the market price. So, you’ll be carrying around cash. A lot of cash. A fancy dinner for 6 required a stack of bills almost three inches thick to pay for. So, bring a zipper purse to carry this cash, passport, receipts etc, and learn to count cash fast. But keep your foreign currency in an envelope inside of that so that shopkeepers can’t see how much you have – one shopkeeper raised her price twofold when she spotted a second $20 bill in my mom’s wallet.
Note that while Visa and MasterCard are technically accepted at many major establishments, the processing fees are usually 12% or more, and that is usually passed on to the customer as a surcharge, or the shop will refuse to process it. So it’s best to rely on ATM’s and cash if you can (ATM’s will spit out crisp $100 bills, so bring your change with you). A reminder – if you don’t bring any cash in, you can’t take any cash out with you (and they will likely ask you at customs why you aren’t bringing in any cash, or why you are only carrying six dollars cash out with you).
Transportation
Uzbekistan has very developed transportation infrastructure. Domestic flights are normal and safe, operated exclusively by Uzbekistan Airways (they’re actually quite nice!). Domestic trains exist, including high-speed trains between Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara. Overnight Tashkent-Samarkand-Urgench (Khiva) trains also exist. Urgench (with an airport and train station) is about 30 minutes by taxi or trolleybus from Khiva. Bukhara is about 8h drive from Khiva. Samarkand is 4h drive/train from Bukhara. And Samarkand to Tashkent is 4h slow train/drive or 2h high speed (“Afrosiyob”) train.
Getting around in cities is a mixture of by foot, by marshrutka, and by taxi. Khiva is completely walkable (it’s a car-free old town). Bukhara is also almost completely walkable (save the palaces on the outskirts). Samarkand is considerably more spread out, so you may want to consider a tour driver there, or you will be left to figure out buses and taxis. Tashkent is also very spread out, so you’ll need to figure that out there as well. Tashkent does have a metro which is clean and efficient with AMAZINGLY beautiful stations (but no photography is permitted).
Alas, I didn’t ever ride a bus or a taxi in Uzbekistan, but people I know who have indicated they are safe, just be sure you know the price and destination as you board. Downloading Maps.Me ahead of your trip along with the Uzbekistan maps is a great way to be sure you never get lost.
Budgeting
Uzbekistan is very reasonably priced, but it’s important to have an idea of your budget ahead of time due to the aforementioned money situation. With street cafes, your meals will be under $5 per person. A good rule of thumb for most places is 15,000 som per person for food, plus 6,000 for non-alcoholic drinks. Divide this by your exchange rate and you get the approximate cost. Fancier places and alcohol will run you more, with wine or mixed drinks running between 13,000 and 35,000 som per glass. Fancy restaurants may have land entrees for 25,000 and seafood for over 35,000.
With all my lodging arranged, I’m not sure exactly how much my hotels cost, but you can expect most hotels to be in the $30-$90 range, depending on location, quality, and season. Hostels in a few places start at $10. Expect lodging to be a big part of your costs.
Safety and Security
Uzbekistan has a somewhat different perspective on security and law and order than the US and Europe. As a result, security is very tight in many places. Entering the metro in Tashkent, you will have your bags searched – twice. Airports and train stations have a search at the curb, the door, at customs, and before boarding, including pat-downs and more invasive searches. Along major roads, private cars will be stopped at roadblocks and searched (don’t take photos if you see police anywhere on the road! Ask your driver to be sure it’s ok to take photos in an area). At some of these stops and searches, you might be asked to unlock your cameras, phones, and computers so police can search them to determine whether you are carrying contraband (specifically, pornography or material related to terrorism).
The Uzbeks I talked to appreciate this scrutiny, as it helps them feel more safe and secure (which is a big deal, given that Uzbekistan borders Afghanistan). It’s likely a key reason that Uzbekistan is arguably the safest country in the region. But, to many foreigners, this level of security is surprising, and occasionally frustrating. Traveling on an official tour means you will face much less of this scrutiny, which can reduce associated stress. But for independent travelers, if approached by police, be nice, comply with their requests (except don’t bribe them because illegal), and clear off anything controversial from your phones and hard drives before you visit!
Recommended Sights
I’m still building out my blog posts about Uzbekistan, but my major places to see list includes:
- Tashkent
- See the capital of modern Uzbekistan
- Ride on one of the world’s most beautiful metros (no photos!)
- See the large parks and wide open spaces
- Taste traditional “Tashkentski” plov
- See the oldest copy of the Qur’an in existence at the Teleshayakh Mosque
- Visit the amazingly well organized Chorsu Bazaar
- See the Museum of Applied Arts, which has a collection of handcrafts in a wonderfully restored and preserved home
- Samarkand
- See the Gur Emir Mausoleum, or the Mausoleum of Amir Timur (also called Temirlane), a beautifully restored building and chamber to honor the “father of Uzbekistan”
- Visit the unbelievable Registan Square, one of the finest collections of Islamic architecture in the world
- Explore the Shahi Zinda necropolis, an incredible collection of spectacular mausoleums
- See the unearthed observatory of Ulugbek, including an enormous underground sextant the size of a house
- Explore the unrestored interior of the spectacular Bibi-Khanym mosque
- See the Afrosiyab archaeological museum, with its collection of preserved wall paintings from something like 1000 years ago
- Visit one of the coolest carpet workshops I’ve seen in the world
- Bukhara
- See that Minar-e-Kalon, the tallest minaret in Central Asia
- Explore the Juma Mosque, which can hold over ten thousand worshippers
- Find Chor-Minor, the tiny but beautiful former madrasa gate that is tucked into a neighborhood but is on the cover of the Lonely Planet Central Asia guidebook
- See the beautifully preserved Zoroastrian architecture at the Mausoleum of Ismoil Somoni, now celebrated as the “father of Tajikistan” (just don’t say that there!)
- Drink water from the Spring of Job at the Chashma Ayub Mausoleum
- Admire the beauty both inside and outside of the “40 Pillars” Mosque
- Relax at the restaurants and cafes around the Lyab-i-Hauz lagoon in the very center
- Learn about traditional silk weaving at a workshop, and buy fabric and scarves
- Khiva
- Admire the incredible tile work on the Kalta Minor (incomplete minaret) by the Orient Star Khiva hotel, which is in an old madrasa
- Climb to the top of Itchan Kala for the most spectacular view of the old town of Khiva
- Find the 6 original columns in the ancient Friday mosque in the centre of town, and the one column carved from wood in India.
- Pay respects at the Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum, one of the holiest pilgrimage sites in Uzbekistan
- Explore the palaces, madrasas, and really all of the old town
- Visit the carpet workshop that was featured in “A Carpet Ride To Khiva”
- Nukus (to visit the Aral Sea)
- Visit the Karakalpakstan Museum of Art
- Travel to visit the remnants of the Aral Sea from the Uzbek side
- Margilon
- See the incredible Margilon Silk Bazaar, buy some fabric, and have a beautiful coat made
- A LOT of other places are worth visiting! Read up on the country and see what strikes your fancy.
If you have ideas for how else I can improve this incredibly non-exhaustive list of information, please let me know via email or in the comments below!