Mile 16: August Before The Fall

Note: I’m back! Sorry for the hiatus, and sorry in advance for the ensuing DELUGE of posts and pretty pictures that are about to come your way!

Summer was supposed to be a quiet time for me.  It had been implied to me that I needed to not leave site this summer, so I cancelled my plans to work at a variety of camps and things, instead planning to bide my time a bit, focus on my blog, and maybe hit a few touristy weekends while work slowed to a crawl for July and August.  Well, by the first week of August, it was clear that wasn’t how things were going to play out, and that actually turned out to be a good thing. Continue reading “Mile 16: August Before The Fall”

What Are Those Concrete Ditches?

Any visitor to Central Asia, Iran, and a bunch of other places has probably noticed that just about every road is flanked on both sides by channels that flow with water or fill with trash.  They’re everywhere.  And even though they have a name, very few locals know it, let alone dictionaries, and despite their ubiquity, almost no one has researched or written about them.  But given that falling into one is one of my funniest stories from when I lived in Tajikistan, it’s about time that I educated myself!  Behold, let’s learn about the famous aryk (арык)! Continue reading “What Are Those Concrete Ditches?”

72 Hours In Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan: A Destination Guide

Bishkek.  Capital of the Kyrgyz Republic.  Largest city, hub for culture and industry.  And the place most people first encounter when they arrive in Kyrgyzstan.  In fact, it’s very difficult to visit Kyrgyzstan and NOT end up in Bishkek for at least one night because all the flights leave in the middle of the night.  I’ve been in Bishkek a lot lately for training, so I’ve put together this guide to some of my favorite sights, hangouts, and day-trips that you too can do during your time there. Continue reading “72 Hours In Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan: A Destination Guide”

The Secret To Kyrgyz Taxi Fares

I’ve talked way too much on this blog about how much I prefer taking marshrutkas and buses to riding in taxis.  But, sometimes, you can’t get away from the fact that taxis are the only way that you’re going to get from point A to point B.  Confounding all of this is the fact that just about every city in the former USSR has a different approach to taxis.  Here’s a rough guide on navigating the major taxi systems of Kyrgyzstan (plus Almaty and Dushanbe). Continue reading “The Secret To Kyrgyz Taxi Fares”

Mile 4: Adventure, Uncertainty, and Illness

When you join the Peace Corps, you know that you’re going headfirst into an unknown of knowns. You know that you’ll get sick, but you don’t know when. You know you’ll have an adventure, but you don’t know how or where. You know you’ll have ups and downs, but you don’t know the nature of those challenges. In fact, inasmuch as we have been trained to know how to handle a pretty insane number of wild and wacky situations, many of which are genuinely likely to happen, not knowing if and when they will happen means that, at most times, you still feel completely immersed in the unknown. It’s the fundamental paradox of the Peace Corps.

I spent a lot of August wandering in that wilderness. Continue reading “Mile 4: Adventure, Uncertainty, and Illness”

Mile 2: Two Months, Two Towns

It’s not that often that life swerves around as much as mine seems to have in the past month, but then again, it’s not that often in life that your path takes you halfway around the world to a country few Americans have heard of.

A week ago now, I moved to my permanent site in Osh City. It is the single biggest transition that I’ve experienced thus far, and it has been filled with excitement and anticipation. I now have lived in Kyrgyzstan for over two months, longer than both Tajikistan and China, and second only to Geneva, whose tenure I will surpass only as I prepare to leave Kyrgyzstan.

My second month here, though, was spent in the same village outside the capital as before, only this time, we knew both where we would be moving and what we would be doing – at least, to the extent that it is possible to know and fully understand a fully unknowable situation. It was much of the same exploration of language (that is a kind way of saying I sat on the floor for 6 hours a day conjugating verbs, which I did in fact very much enjoy), and learning our policies during weekly all-trainee meetings. Continue reading “Mile 2: Two Months, Two Towns”

Bishkek Day

Friday was a big day for us – not only did it mark over two weeks at our training villages (it says a lot that I began typing “months” instead of weeks while typing that sentence), but it was also our big Bishkek Day. Bishkek Day is a milestone because we get a full guided tour of Bishkek, the largest city in Kyrgyzstan, and it also is the point at which we are allowed to leave our villages to visit other volunteers, shop in a regional city, and also to travel back into Bishkek. In short, we are all thrilled and exhausted.

We started out our day at the normal time, but rather than sit cross-legged around a table and study Kyrgyz all day, we climbed into a marshrutka (a kind of minibus that I’ll write more about later) and rode into town, changing vehicles along the way. From one bus station, we took another marshrutka to the other so that we would know where both were (this is very important, since we have to take the local minibuses to get around town and the country). These each have waiting halls, a bunch of shops and stalls, and outside, a series of parking rows where the next minibuses to assigned destinations in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan depart. Merchants walk up and down selling bread, water, and soda from small carts, while drivers of shared taxis and the buses alike shout names of destinations in the hopes of getting additional fares. The logo of both bus stations is an “A” in a circle, with wings coming off the sides, in a socialist realist style. Continue reading “Bishkek Day”