Book And Movie Club: The Day Lasts More Than A Hundred Years by Chingiz Aitmatov

This is a guest post by my epic sitemate and fellow blogger Colleen Wood, who writes the amazing blog Prekrasno.  Let’s be honest, she’s way better at this than me, bringing incredible depth and humanity to each of her interactions with locals that she documents on her blog.  Her posts are insightful and incisive, and I love reading every single one of them.  Last week, I published a guest post at Prekrasno about Jamila by Chingiz Aitmatov, and this week, Colleen is writing here about another of Kyrgyzstan’s most famous works, The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years by Chingiz Aitmatov.  You can grab a copy here if you’d like to read along!

Kyrgyz people are often confused when I can’t list off the national clothes, national drink, or national food of the United States (though, to be honest, I just always say that hot dish is our national meal). The idea of a national “everything” is very important here, and these symbols of Kyrgyz(stani) culture are fairly fixed: kymyz is the national beverage, kara jorgo the national dance, and besh barmak the national food (though, as a resident of southern Kyrgyzstan, I’d make a case for ash).

When it comes to Kyrgyzstan’s “national writer,” arguments could be made for various poets and authors, but it would be pretty hard to beat Chyngyz Aitmatov. His short stories and novellas have been a joy to read, but nothing so far compares to his 1980 novel The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years.

The book takes place in the course of a single day: villagers of the Boranly-Burannyi rail station learn of the passing of a respected elder, Kazangap, and go on a journey to bury him. The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years gets its name from the weaving together of several stories: some intense magical realism involving a pair of Soviet and American astronauts who make contact with an alien planet, the fallout of Stalin-era purges on a man and his family, the main character’s relationship with his feisty Bactrian camel, and two Kazakh folk tales (3, if you’re reading the original Russian).

The fate of Central Asian traditions and identity is a focal point of the novel, highlighted by the efforts of Yedigei, an old man who made his home at the rail station, to bury his beloved friend and fellow railworker Kazangap. Yedigei is determined to bury Kazangap in the Ana-Beiit cemetery, but is frustrated with the perceived lack of dedication and care on the part of the other, younger men in the burial party:

“Looking at his young companions on the tractor, Burannyi Yedigei was genuinely distressed and sorry to think that none of them knew a single prayer. How then could they bury one another? With what words, covering the beginning and end of a life, would they sum up the departure of a man into the unknown, into non-existence? ‘Farewell, comrade, we will remember you.’ Or with some other sort of nonsense?” (97)

The Ana-Beiit cemetery is off limits to the villagers, who decide to bury Kazangap in a random patch of the steppe instead. Ana-Beiit, which means “mother’s grave” in Kazakh, appears in the landscape of another fairytale told throughout the novel, that of the “mankurt.” According to Central Asian legend, mankurts were prisoners of war, tortured by roaming Chinese tribes, and turned into zombie slaves with no memory of their former village, family, or identity.

The movie adaptation (available on YouTube) of The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years focuses solely on this sub-plot, entirely ignoring the more magical threads of the novel’s narrative structure. Shot in 1990 in Turkmenistan, the movie (aptly called Mankurt) follows the fate of a young soldier, Yolaman. Yolaman is captured by Chinese bandits and is tortured with a piece of camel flesh tied around his head; as other captives die of starvation and dehydration, Yolaman slowly loses his mind and all his memories.

The Day Lasts More Than A Hundred Years Movie Screengrab
Yolaman, still taken from the 1990 film Mankurt

Yolaman’s mother, Naiman, is waiting impatiently with in the canyons; on a hunch, she decides to head out to the steppe to fine her son and bring him home. Naiman is devastated that her son can’t remember who he is; as she shouts “Dorunbai! Dorunbai!”, the name of Yolaman’s father, a bird picks up the call and repeats the name over and over as the encounter turns tragic.

This same bird circles overhead as Yedigei tries to gain entry to Ana-Beiit, the final resting place of Naiman herself, calling out Dorunbaiiii, dorunbaiiii. Here, the bird doesn’t speak to recall a forgotten father, but instead forgotten traditions. Aitmatov uses the novel to make a statement about this generation of people, fully transformed Homo sovieticus, who are disconnected from the language and cultural staples of their ancestors.

In a eulogy for Aitmatov published in Harper’s, Scott Horton writes, “One of the great charms of Aitmatov’s life was that he charted first the decline of the Central Asian life and identity, and then participated in its resurrection as the Soviet Union collapsed and as the Central Asian states regained, quite unexpectedly, their autonomy and footing on the world stage.”

It’s fitting, then, that Aitmatov, a Kyrgyz man, wrote this book that takes place on the Kazakh steppe, and a team of Turkmen filmmakers picked up the mankurt tale. The struggle to protect and pass on traditional ways of life persisted in many areas of the Soviet Union, and Chyngyz Aitmatov was able to give voice to the way that played out not only in Kyrgyzstan, but all across Soviet Central Asia.

Reading this book, I couldn’t help but wonder at how these works – The Day Lasts More than a Hundred Years and Mankurt – were produced and distributed before the collapse of the Soviet Union. The film portrays the danger of losing grasp on traditional mores, and the book advocates individualism, wariness of state authority, and Islamic rites. Somehow by the grace of glasnost, it made it through, and thank goodness for that.

Check out more of Colleen’s masterful writing at Prekrasno, and if you’re interested, pick up a copy of The Day Lasts More Than A Hundred Years here!

Let me know what you think of both The Day Lasts More Than A Hundred Years the book and Mankurt the film in the comments!  And don’t forget to like Monday Bazaar on Facebook and follow on Instagram for the latest updates!

My Top 10 Books About Central Asia

Are you considering a trip to visit Central Asia?  Are you planning to move here?  Or are you curious to read more scholarly and better-researched and better-written stories than I have here on my blog?  Fear not, because I’ve spent enough time here now to be able to give you a reading list of my 10 favorite books about Central Asia that can help you better understand it and get pumped up about visiting. Continue reading “My Top 10 Books About Central Asia”

Midnight At A Central Asian Airport

The cafeteria is lively and buzzing.  Kyrgyz music videos blare out of a nearby television as a few ofitsantkas run back and forth to the kitchen carrying plates overflowing with lagmanmastavasamsa, and pirozhki.  I sigh heavily as I pour another cupful of green tea into the small bowl called a piala that is used as a teacup here in Osh.  People come and go as nearly every table remains full, people wrapped in faux fur coats and hats, with several pieces of luggage by their side, each carefully wrapped several times in plastic wrap.

It’s 2am, and I’ve learned a very important lesson about flying in Central Asia: your flights are scheduled at the airline’s convenience, not yours. Continue reading “Midnight At A Central Asian Airport”

That Marshrutka Life

Any blog about life in the former Soviet Union is incomplete without a post discussing the omnipresent marshrutka, the transportation of choice in most cities of the former USSR. I wrote a little about the shared taxi system of Dushanbe in a post a few years back called Managing Marshrutkas, but now that I spend about an hour every day inside the real deal, I think it’s a subject that bears revisiting.

First of all, what is a marshrutka?  Continue reading “That Marshrutka Life”

On The Mixing Of Languages In Osh

Osh is unique in many ways, but perhaps one of its most unique aspects is the sheer number of languages that are spoken in its streets. Perhaps only in New York City, New Delhi, Kabul, or Paris are so many languages spoken by so many, but Osh is unique in that so many residents understand every single one of these languages.

Part of this seems to come from Osh’s 3000 year history at the crossroads of trade and empire. Osh’s current demographics reflect some of this history; 48% of its population is Uzbek, 43% Kyrgyz, 3% Russian, 1% Tatar, 1% Tajik, and 4% comes from other linguistic groups, such as Dungans, Karakalpaks, Kazakhs, Uighurs, etc.

Original map from the University of Toronto, with the ethnic group distribution of Central Asia, http://individual.utoronto.ca/s_bahry/Literacy_in_Tajikistan_files/image004.jpg

There are historically two major linguistic groups interacting in Central Asia: the Persian langauges (Farsi, Dari, and Tajik), and the Turkic languages (Kyrgyz, Kazakh, Uzbek, Uiyghur, Turkmen, Azeri, Turkish, Tatar, Karakalpak, and a whole bunch of others). Continue reading “On The Mixing Of Languages In Osh”

Nomad Horse Games Festival

Horsemen rest near the end of the day.
Horsemen rest near the end of the day.

There are a few things that most people, upon first glance at their Central Asia Lonely Planet, will remember most vividly about Kyrgyzstan: yurts and horse games. Most people who come to Kyrgyzstan get to see or stay in a yurt and drink kymyz to their heart’s content. But not very many get to see the traditional Kyrgyz horseback games. And yet this past weekend, I and several other volunteers found ourselves high in the passes of the Alay region south of Osh at the Nomad Horse Games Festival, one of the first of its kind in the world, organized by the Community Based Tourism organization here (If you’re planning a trip to Kyrgyzstan, CBT is one of the best ways to go).

Continue reading “Nomad Horse Games Festival”

Man Down

Today I fell in a hole in front of a giant crowd of Tajik students. Whoops.

I’ll back this story up to provide some context to what so far has been the funniest thing to happen to me since arriving in Tajikistan. Here there are a lot of open areas for water drainage – the rare rain that comes can cause major flooding, and so the city has a very effective system of water drainage from sidewalks and streets.

However, this results in many open holes and channels, or jubes, that are occasionally hazardous to people and Ladas alike. We had been warned that we should always look where we were going because of “open manhole covers,” as it was put to us, but having only seen one that was actually a manhole, I sort of brushed this aside as I walked along chatting with some people after class.

And then suddenly there wasn’t ground under my foot and, “like a train wreck in slow motion” in the words of one of my friends, down I went. It was noon at one of the busiest intersections in the city, and people were already watching us. I blinked for a second before jumping back to my feet. All we could do was laugh and walk quickly before I blushed too much.

Lesson learned: watch your step.

Mark, Meet Dushanbe

We arrived in Tajikistan at 3:30 in the morning a few days ago, and since then I have a lot to report, partially because I have not had a lot of access to the internet. On our first day, we spent most of the day trying to orient ourselves after having had very little real sleep for several days. After clearing customs, we were bussed over to a hotel in the center of the city to rest for a few hours before eating and having an in-country orientation. We all had thought that we would immediately pass out for the entire rest period, but many of us ended up sitting around using the internet to update friends and families as to our location and arrival (this was when I posted my last blog, assuming I would have internet the following day to post another). After finally being able to fall asleep, though, many of us regretted the decision because we were so sleepy when we woke up. After our orientation we had lunch at a Persian restaurant, and then walked around the city for a few hours. Continue reading “Mark, Meet Dushanbe”

DYU

Dushanbe, Tajikistan. The city that will be my home for two months this summer. A city the size of Boston located in the heart of Central Asia, isolated by mountains on all sides. A city whose past lies not in a city but in a market that took place every Monday for centuries. It is that market from which the city and this blog take their names. Follow my blog and my journey as I graduate college and move on to travel across the globe,beginning with Dushanbe in June.

 

Image from: http://ds-lands.com/dushanbe.html