Dimdama in the Hills

The first week of May in Kyrgyzstan is filled with holidays, so many so that the government often will just declare the entire week a holiday.  This year, because May 1st fell on a Sunday, we had holidays on May 2-5, and again on May 9.  May 2nd was for the observance of May Day, May 5th is Constitution Day, and May 9th is Victory Day.  May 3 and 4th we were given off just because.  So, all of Team Osh came together to head out into the countryside for some hiking, exploring, friend time, and of course, carbs.

Continue reading “Dimdama in the Hills”

Road Trip Part 3: The Road to Issyk-Kul

Issyk-Kul means “hot lake” in Kyrgyz, so named because it does not freeze in winter because of its salt content. It’s the second largest alpine lake in the world (after Lake Titicaca), and is saline because it is in an isolated basin without drainage. Lined with beaches and mountains, in the summer it’s hard to tell that you’re in Kyrgyzstan, and not actually on the Mediterrannean coast.

After spending the night in Song Kul, where we were pelted by a terrific thunderstorm and the roof of our felt yurt dripped on us all night, we were greeted by this spectacular sunrise:

Sunrise after the storm
Sunrise after the storm

Just about all of my best photos from this trip came from that morning. We got up at sunrise, about 5:30 or 6:00, and our Kyrgyz hosts brought a table and mattresses outside, lit the samovar (they use wood-fired samovars to heat water in areas without electricity), and poured us tea and kymyz with bread as we sat in the near-horizontal sunlight. We were fully awake because of the light, but its angle and the cool temperature (it had gone down to 40 degrees overnight) reminded me more of Iceland than of Kyrgyzstan. Words really can’t capture the feeling of sheer expanse, with no trees in sight. Continue reading “Road Trip Part 3: The Road to Issyk-Kul”

My Kyrgyz Kitchen: Mother-In-Law’s Tongue

I’m excited to bring you today a recipe that is both easy to follow and one of my very favorite foods that I’ve had here. It’s called Mother-In-Law’s Tongue, and it’s basically deep fried battered eggplant with tomato and a garlic mayonnaise. It has the extra benefit of being something that is very easily to duplicate in an American kitchen! Continue reading “My Kyrgyz Kitchen: Mother-In-Law’s Tongue”

Kyrgyz Life Hacks: Tea With Preserves

Every country puts its own twist on a large varieties of food; Iran likes to put ketchup on its pizza, the US for some reason enjoys water in its espresso americano, and someone, somewhere decided anchovies belonged on pizza. Well, Kyrgyzstan presented me with one such unusual combination, but it’s one that I’m telling you all that you absolutely MUST try at home: using fruit preserves as tea sweetener.

That sounds strange right? At first glance, taking a spoonful of homemade варенье and plopping it into a cup of hot black or green tea may sound strange. You’ll just have to trust me that this is not only a delicious modification that gets you truly natural fruit-flavored tea, but also one that I’ve found helps settle my stomach.

The recipe is simple: take a cup of green or black tea and mix in 1-3 teaspoons of natural fruit preserves. Raspberry, strawberry, blackberry… they all make great candidates, especially if they’re natural and made by hand in Kyrgyzstan. People here drink a lot of tea, and this is an easy way to mix up your tea flavors beyond just the ordinary colors.

When I first saw my host family doing this, I was shocked – I’d never even remotely thought of mixing anything other than honey or sugar into my tea (side note: the honey here is all natural and all DELICIOUS). They encouraged me to try it, and now I drink about a quarter of my tea with one of their homemade selections mixed in (I’m trying to drink most of it without sweeteners because I’ve got enough processed sugar in my diet as is and I’m fond of my teeth).

Also on the subject of tea, green tea here is called “blue” tea, as it is in many countries in this region, and we drink it on occasion.

If you try it and like it, let me know in the comments below!

UPDATE: Somehow, I overlooked that this very life hack actually appears in my favorite book series, His Dark Materials, while one of the characters is traveling to Central Asia from Siberia.  Props to Philip Pullman!

 

The First Week

Rudaki Park
A statue of the poet Rudaki in Rudaki Park in central Dushanbe, Tajikistan

It’s been a VERY long week it seems, probably because of the 15 hour-long days that start at dawn and go until well after dark. I’m definitely sleeping well, but more from exhaustion than from the bed. It is comfortable, but has taken some getting used to, particularly the part where it’s not extra-long like my dorm bed. Luckily, the temperatures in the evening drop into the 60’s from the 100’s during the day, which means I actually have to sleep with a blanket or something (usually my sweater – it’s too warm the first half of the night to have it on).

My house is nice, and understanding my host grandmother has gotten a lot easier. My host mom and I get along great; she is very warm and caring, but also very patient and willing to help me try out grammatical structures and use new vocabulary. I took it as a very positive sign (and a great practice opportunity) when today she asked me to translate a sunblock package into Tajik so she could understand it, then since she had not used sunblock really before, asked me how I would advise her to use it. She also had me translate and describe how to use foot and hand cream. I think giving beauty tips in Tajik definitely helped my language skills. Continue reading “The First Week”