Today is September 23rd, and it marks a somewhat unusual holiday, one of a type that is becoming common across Central Asia: National Kyrgyz Language Day. Perhaps it seems self evident that the national language of Kyrgyzstan would be Kyrgyz, but it’s not quite that simple thanks to the country’s history. And to understand that history, we’ve got to do a little bit of linguistic anthropology. Let’s dive in. Continue reading “Language Lessons: National Kyrgyz Language Day”
I’ve lived in Kyrgyzstan for over five months at this point, which means that I’ve managed to gather enough language fails to put two into a full-length blog. Luckily, rather than being embarrassing, these are all moments that led to raucous laughter, and some of which my host family recounts lovingly to every guest who comes to visit us at our house. Let’s take a look. Continue reading “Language Lessons: A Few Foibles”
One thing I’ve noticed about a lot of Central Asian houses is just how sparsely furnished they are. A family usually owns a dining room table, a table for the topchan outside, a bunch of chairs, some couches in the guesting rooms, maybe a wall cabinet unit for memories, and possibly a few desks and wardrobes in the bedrooms. You probably have noticed that beds are not on that list. In fact, my room is the only room in my house that actually has a bed in it. Continue reading “Sleeping On The Floor”
Get ready, because this week, we’re going to learn how to make one of my all-time favorite Central Asian dishes: Plov!
Continue reading “My Kyrgyz, Uzbek, and Tajik Kitchen: Plov”
I got a few notes from people who read my post about languages heard in and around Osh and Kyrgyzstan who were surprised to hear that German is, in fact, spoken in some places in Kyrgyzstan. It’s surprising at first, but when I began to take a look at the larger history of populations of Central Asia, I learned a ton about some unexpected groups that have sizeable populations here.
To understand this situation, we’ve got to wind the clock back to Stalin. Continue reading “Sie Beherrschen Die Deutsche In Kirgisistan?!?!”
Osh is unique in many ways, but perhaps one of its most unique aspects is the sheer number of languages that are spoken in its streets. Perhaps only in New York City, New Delhi, Kabul, or Paris are so many languages spoken by so many, but Osh is unique in that so many residents understand every single one of these languages.
Part of this seems to come from Osh’s 3000 year history at the crossroads of trade and empire. Osh’s current demographics reflect some of this history; 48% of its population is Uzbek, 43% Kyrgyz, 3% Russian, 1% Tatar, 1% Tajik, and 4% comes from other linguistic groups, such as Dungans, Karakalpaks, Kazakhs, Uighurs, etc.
There are historically two major linguistic groups interacting in Central Asia: the Persian langauges (Farsi, Dari, and Tajik), and the Turkic languages (Kyrgyz, Kazakh, Uzbek, Uiyghur, Turkmen, Azeri, Turkish, Tatar, Karakalpak, and a whole bunch of others). Continue reading “On The Mixing Of Languages In Osh”
Kyrgyz is an extraordinarily poetic language at times, and nowhere is this more apparent than in its vowel harmony, which is one of the language’s most famous and defining features. But what is it, and how does it work?
Vowel harmony, in essence, is a set of rules that mean that in any truly Kyrgyz word (i.e. isn’t Russian, Persian, Tajik, Uzbek, Arabic, etc.), there will only be two vowels, and they will be of a related sound (i.e. left shift vowels are open-jawed and right-shift vowels are the same sound, with your jaw closed further. Try it with “oh” and “oo” and you can see that your mouth stays mostly in the same position, just closes slightly). It also dictates which vowels will be used in the formation of a suffix. If that sounds confusing, don’t worry. It doesn’t make sense to describe it in text, so I’ll walk us through a few examples. Continue reading “Language Lessons: Kyrgyz Vowel Harmony”
There are a few things that most people, upon first glance at their Central Asia Lonely Planet, will remember most vividly about Kyrgyzstan: yurts and horse games. Most people who come to Kyrgyzstan get to see or stay in a yurt and drink kymyz to their heart’s content. But not very many get to see the traditional Kyrgyz horseback games. And yet this past weekend, I and several other volunteers found ourselves high in the passes of the Alay region south of Osh at the Nomad Horse Games Festival, one of the first of its kind in the world, organized by the Community Based Tourism organization here (If you’re planning a trip to Kyrgyzstan, CBT is one of the best ways to go).
