Swarm Of Earthquakes Strikes Chong-Alay Region

It didn’t make headlines internationally, but the Chong-Alay region that I’ve been doing so much work with has in the past week has experienced a swarm of 11 earthquakes above 4.5 magnitude (out of 16 total recorded).  The largest of these, around 5.9 magnitude according to USGS (initially reported as 7.0 by local authorities, now said to be 6.5) on May 3rd, was strong enough to evacuate some buildings in Osh, and several of the aftershocks have been up to 5.8 in magnitude.  Technically, they were centered in Tajikistan, but their heaviest impact has been felt here. They may not have made international headlines or even local headlines, but they have been devastating nonetheless.  I want to share with you a bit of what I’ve been able to learn about the situation. Continue reading “Swarm Of Earthquakes Strikes Chong-Alay Region”

Mile 16: August Before The Fall

Note: I’m back! Sorry for the hiatus, and sorry in advance for the ensuing DELUGE of posts and pretty pictures that are about to come your way!

Summer was supposed to be a quiet time for me.  It had been implied to me that I needed to not leave site this summer, so I cancelled my plans to work at a variety of camps and things, instead planning to bide my time a bit, focus on my blog, and maybe hit a few touristy weekends while work slowed to a crawl for July and August.  Well, by the first week of August, it was clear that wasn’t how things were going to play out, and that actually turned out to be a good thing. Continue reading “Mile 16: August Before The Fall”

72 Hours In Osh, Kyrgyzstan: A Destination Guide

Summer is here, which means that each week, more and more adventurous tourists come passing through my beloved home of Osh, Kyrgyzstan.  A lot has changed about Osh even since the Lonely Planet Central Asia and the Bradt Kyrgyzstan guides were updated in 2014, so I wanted to put together a quick destination guide to things to do and see in Osh for the DIY tourist who’s going to be passing through or staying for a few days.  Most tourists only budget a few days or even a few hours for Osh, but let me tell you, there’s plenty of reasons to spend more time than that here!

Lets get started! Continue reading “72 Hours In Osh, Kyrgyzstan: A Destination Guide”

The Secret To Kyrgyz Taxi Fares

I’ve talked way too much on this blog about how much I prefer taking marshrutkas and buses to riding in taxis.  But, sometimes, you can’t get away from the fact that taxis are the only way that you’re going to get from point A to point B.  Confounding all of this is the fact that just about every city in the former USSR has a different approach to taxis.  Here’s a rough guide on navigating the major taxi systems of Kyrgyzstan (plus Almaty and Dushanbe). Continue reading “The Secret To Kyrgyz Taxi Fares”

When Your PC Site Gets 4G LTE…

Attention Kara-Suu Bazaar shoppers.  I have some exciting news… Osh now has 4G LTE cell data service from 2 of Kyrgyzstan’s 3 cell service providers.  LTE.  In my Peace Corps site.  WHAAAAAAT?!

Now, a lot of you probably are asking yourselves “what’s LTE and why should I care?”  To answer this question, I’m going to explain the state of my internet before this glorious event took place.

Continue reading “When Your PC Site Gets 4G LTE…”

Nomad Horse Games Festival

Horsemen rest near the end of the day.
Horsemen rest near the end of the day.

There are a few things that most people, upon first glance at their Central Asia Lonely Planet, will remember most vividly about Kyrgyzstan: yurts and horse games. Most people who come to Kyrgyzstan get to see or stay in a yurt and drink kymyz to their heart’s content. But not very many get to see the traditional Kyrgyz horseback games. And yet this past weekend, I and several other volunteers found ourselves high in the passes of the Alay region south of Osh at the Nomad Horse Games Festival, one of the first of its kind in the world, organized by the Community Based Tourism organization here (If you’re planning a trip to Kyrgyzstan, CBT is one of the best ways to go).

Continue reading “Nomad Horse Games Festival”

Mile 2: Two Months, Two Towns

It’s not that often that life swerves around as much as mine seems to have in the past month, but then again, it’s not that often in life that your path takes you halfway around the world to a country few Americans have heard of.

A week ago now, I moved to my permanent site in Osh City. It is the single biggest transition that I’ve experienced thus far, and it has been filled with excitement and anticipation. I now have lived in Kyrgyzstan for over two months, longer than both Tajikistan and China, and second only to Geneva, whose tenure I will surpass only as I prepare to leave Kyrgyzstan.

My second month here, though, was spent in the same village outside the capital as before, only this time, we knew both where we would be moving and what we would be doing – at least, to the extent that it is possible to know and fully understand a fully unknowable situation. It was much of the same exploration of language (that is a kind way of saying I sat on the floor for 6 hours a day conjugating verbs, which I did in fact very much enjoy), and learning our policies during weekly all-trainee meetings. Continue reading “Mile 2: Two Months, Two Towns”

Roses

When the rose gardens bloomed in the second month of our training, I was surprised. I wasn’t surprised to see flowers, but rather, was surprised to see so many roses in particular, organized into neat rows by color, bursting forth in so many gardens walking around our hub site, around my village, and in my own family’s garden.

At the end of my street was a particularly beautiful and well-curated garden that I would walk past most days when I was making my way to our hub site and coming back home. In his tiny yard, the man who must have planted them often watched as we made our way to the road to either walk or catch a marshrutka to our next destination.

The roses didn’t start to open right away. They took time. One by one, buds would open, many earlier than the others, some bigger, some smaller. Some are still only opening now, while some blossomed during early May.

I first noticed the roses as I walked away from our site placement event, an event that was really one of the most defining points of both the past month and of our entire service, since it was the day when our work and residences of two years finally were made known to us. There was a large patch with long rows neatly organized by color.

In the month that followed, more and more of them opened. Some wilted, and some blossomed for weeks on end. Some had only just begun to open as we left. Some had large insects in them, while others pricked fingers as they were picked.

Soon, the roses will have finished blooming, and we will soon be rewarded with Kyrgyzstan’s famous produce during the summer. The bounty from those will give us the strength to persevere and work through the long cold winters, and our memories of the roses will sustain us as new roses come forth into our memories, ready to harken another year of good.