The Way Home

The plane sits on the tarmac in Istanbul airport, and as soon as the doors close, the passengers redistribute so that most people have a row to themselves. I see blue passports and hear Kyrgyz chatter, and I know I’m on my way home.

Takeoff is in the darkness of the evening, and landing is in the middle of the night. The passengers applaud the landing in dense fog, stand before we’ve left the runway, and descend the stairs to the misty tarmac into the Cobus. We make way for women, elders, and a woman with a baby, and I know I’m on my way home.

People smile and chatter jovially in the passport control line. A few scoot bags made of plastic bags and duct tape forward as we wait our turn to enter. I am spoken to in Russian. My passport is stamped by an officer in a large fur hat. I walk into the next room, where I unload my checked luggage myself from the back of the baggage truck amidst a crowd of other people. I step outside, to the tune of “taxi, taxi, taxi,” and I know I’m on my way home.

I see Cyrillic everywhere, families reuniting, and my airport here in Osh. I see my family waiting for me. They shake my hand, and we touch our temples to one another on each side. We walk to the car, and share our holiday experiences in Kyrgyz. We get in the car, and it’s right-hand drive. There are beautiful seat covers, and traditional Uzbek music is playing on the radio, and I know I’m on my way home.

We pull up to the house, and I slip my shoes off before going inside. I retrieve my old fashioned key from my pocket and unlock my room. I plug in my heaters, and tidy things a little bit, and make up my floor bed of tyshyks. I go outside to brush my teeth. And finally, after three weeks away from site, I stoop down and slide under my covers and pull out my phone to send a message to my mother.

“I’m home.”

The TezJet: A Love Letter

 

One of the hallmarks of American culture is that we love cheering for the underdog. We love supporting the Red Sox in their fight against the Curse of the Bambino. We love cheering for unpronounceable countries in the World Cup. And above all, we love supporting our hometown pilots against Big Airline.

It is in this context that I’d like to introduce you to a start-up company in Kyrgyzstan called TezJet. Continue reading “The TezJet: A Love Letter”

Road Trip Part 4: Around Issyk-Kul

After what seemed like weeks of travel, we made it to Tamchy for rest. After a few days on the beach, we climbed back into the car and made our way toward a village called Taldy-Suu near the city of Tup, which is where one of my host family members is from. But, naturally, before we could get there, we had to stop and rest, and we chose a beautiful hot spring to stop at. I didn’t take photos of the spring, but it was crowded with Russian and Kyrgyz tourists alike, all starting in the cool pool, moving up to the warm pool, before slowly inching their sunburns fully beneath a waterfall of scalding hot water. Every so often, they’d get out and plunge into an ice bath nearby. There was a juice stand (like the ones in New York), a raptor trainer, and even a restaurant.

After getting our fill, we headed down to the beach again for more relaxation, this time in much more peace and solitude.   Continue reading “Road Trip Part 4: Around Issyk-Kul”

Road Trip Part 3: The Road to Issyk-Kul

Issyk-Kul means “hot lake” in Kyrgyz, so named because it does not freeze in winter because of its salt content. It’s the second largest alpine lake in the world (after Lake Titicaca), and is saline because it is in an isolated basin without drainage. Lined with beaches and mountains, in the summer it’s hard to tell that you’re in Kyrgyzstan, and not actually on the Mediterrannean coast.

After spending the night in Song Kul, where we were pelted by a terrific thunderstorm and the roof of our felt yurt dripped on us all night, we were greeted by this spectacular sunrise:

Sunrise after the storm
Sunrise after the storm

Just about all of my best photos from this trip came from that morning. We got up at sunrise, about 5:30 or 6:00, and our Kyrgyz hosts brought a table and mattresses outside, lit the samovar (they use wood-fired samovars to heat water in areas without electricity), and poured us tea and kymyz with bread as we sat in the near-horizontal sunlight. We were fully awake because of the light, but its angle and the cool temperature (it had gone down to 40 degrees overnight) reminded me more of Iceland than of Kyrgyzstan. Words really can’t capture the feeling of sheer expanse, with no trees in sight. Continue reading “Road Trip Part 3: The Road to Issyk-Kul”

Road Trip Part 2: The Road To Song Kul

Song Kul reminds me of a Microsoft wallpaper. Its grasslands rise from the water’s edge across rolling hills and up to mountains, with the fields broken only by the occasional yurt, cow, or horse. Tucked away in a high mountain basin, there is no electricity or cell coverage within two hours by car. It’s about as peaceful a place as I’ve ever managed to find outside of Alaska.

The ultimate version of Lake, Yurt, and Mountain
I mean, COME ON, LOOK AT THAT.

Song Kul is a summer retreat for many of the semi-nomadic people of Kyrgyzstan. While it has a thriving tourism industry, most of the yurts around the lake belong to ordinary Kyrgyz people who, every summer, bring their herds and flocks from towns and villages to the lake to graze and to relax in the clean crisp cool mountain air. When it is over 100 degrees in Osh during the day, it can be as cool as 40 degrees at night at Song Kul. Even though less than 100km away, people are sweating bullets in Bishkek, in Song Kul, it is necessary to wear sweaters, vests, and fur-lined boots. It’s a contrast in so many ways to many places in Kyrgyzstan, and yet it manages to remain so distinctively Kyrgyz in a most beautiful way. Continue reading “Road Trip Part 2: The Road To Song Kul”

Road Trip Part 1: Driving North

In late July, my host family, who is from Issyk-Kul, invited me along on their annual road trip to the massive lake at the opposite end of the country. They’re from a small village at the very far end of the lake, in a town that is just about as far away from Osh as you can get without leaving Kyrgyzstan. With a short whirlwind of planning, I got permission to join them, and we set off on August 2nd, with the stipulation that I had to be in Bishkek by the evening of August 9th.

The minaret at Uzgen
The minaret at Uzgen

Rather than drive directly, though, we decided to travel a more circuitous route to see more of the country. Our plan included a drive on the spectacular Osh to Bishkek highway, a detour through a remote corner of Naryn oblast up to the world-famous jailoo at Song-Kul, and finally down over the mountains to Issyk-Kul.  We started out driving most of the way to Bishkek along the main north-south road, which winds its way out of Osh, around the pinnacle of Uzbekistan in the side of Kyrgyzstan, and up over the mountains to the Toktogul reservoir, before crossing more mountains. Continue reading “Road Trip Part 1: Driving North”

Nomad Horse Games Festival

Horsemen rest near the end of the day.
Horsemen rest near the end of the day.

There are a few things that most people, upon first glance at their Central Asia Lonely Planet, will remember most vividly about Kyrgyzstan: yurts and horse games. Most people who come to Kyrgyzstan get to see or stay in a yurt and drink kymyz to their heart’s content. But not very many get to see the traditional Kyrgyz horseback games. And yet this past weekend, I and several other volunteers found ourselves high in the passes of the Alay region south of Osh at the Nomad Horse Games Festival, one of the first of its kind in the world, organized by the Community Based Tourism organization here (If you’re planning a trip to Kyrgyzstan, CBT is one of the best ways to go).

Continue reading “Nomad Horse Games Festival”

Mile 2: Two Months, Two Towns

It’s not that often that life swerves around as much as mine seems to have in the past month, but then again, it’s not that often in life that your path takes you halfway around the world to a country few Americans have heard of.

A week ago now, I moved to my permanent site in Osh City. It is the single biggest transition that I’ve experienced thus far, and it has been filled with excitement and anticipation. I now have lived in Kyrgyzstan for over two months, longer than both Tajikistan and China, and second only to Geneva, whose tenure I will surpass only as I prepare to leave Kyrgyzstan.

My second month here, though, was spent in the same village outside the capital as before, only this time, we knew both where we would be moving and what we would be doing – at least, to the extent that it is possible to know and fully understand a fully unknowable situation. It was much of the same exploration of language (that is a kind way of saying I sat on the floor for 6 hours a day conjugating verbs, which I did in fact very much enjoy), and learning our policies during weekly all-trainee meetings. Continue reading “Mile 2: Two Months, Two Towns”

Bishkek Day

Friday was a big day for us – not only did it mark over two weeks at our training villages (it says a lot that I began typing “months” instead of weeks while typing that sentence), but it was also our big Bishkek Day. Bishkek Day is a milestone because we get a full guided tour of Bishkek, the largest city in Kyrgyzstan, and it also is the point at which we are allowed to leave our villages to visit other volunteers, shop in a regional city, and also to travel back into Bishkek. In short, we are all thrilled and exhausted.

We started out our day at the normal time, but rather than sit cross-legged around a table and study Kyrgyz all day, we climbed into a marshrutka (a kind of minibus that I’ll write more about later) and rode into town, changing vehicles along the way. From one bus station, we took another marshrutka to the other so that we would know where both were (this is very important, since we have to take the local minibuses to get around town and the country). These each have waiting halls, a bunch of shops and stalls, and outside, a series of parking rows where the next minibuses to assigned destinations in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan depart. Merchants walk up and down selling bread, water, and soda from small carts, while drivers of shared taxis and the buses alike shout names of destinations in the hopes of getting additional fares. The logo of both bus stations is an “A” in a circle, with wings coming off the sides, in a socialist realist style. Continue reading “Bishkek Day”

The Arrival

 

Note: This post was posted late due to lack of internet access. We have been here and safe for over two weeks now.

We made it to Kyrgyzstan. Our group was missing about half of our bags (surprisingly left behind in Frankfurt during a short layover, and not lost in Istanbul as was feared), with delays on nearly all of the flights, crowned by a massive 4-hour delay leaving Istanbul that had most of our group sleeping on the floor of the gate 204 boarding area alongside the entire Kyrgyz men’s hockey team, which was returning from a successful tournament in Kuwait. But we made it, and at the time of this posting, everyone has all of their luggage, amazingly.

Continue reading “The Arrival”